《《王妃13岁》》最新章节_《王妃13岁》无弹窗

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十八种妙穴的详细资料

谢奕妹

妖艳的热带花卉新加坡植物园的志性场景在参天巨树旁留影新加坡植物园（Singapore Botanic Gardens），位于新加坡，南部为荷兰路和内皮尔路，占地54公顷。开放时间为早上5点至午夜12点，并且除国家兰花园外全园免费。园内以研究和收集热带植物、园艺花卉而著称。约为英国皇家植物园大小的一半，纽约中央公园的五分之一。园内有20000多种亚热带、热带的奇异花卉和珍贵的树木。园内的景点还有棕榈谷（PalmValley）、生态湖（Eco-Lake）和交响乐湖畔（SymphonyLake）的露天音乐会。植物园有一个藏书万册的图书馆，有一间植物本室，收集草本植物本约有50万种。漫步其中，走马观花的徒步穿行，大约需要2、3个小时的时间。如果你喜爱研究植物，植物园的植物都明其学名及原产地，仔细看过每个介绍，估计就要一天的时间了。走进植物园，你感觉不到城市的喧嚣，犹如置身绿色海洋，一如新加坡的其它地方一样，干净整洁，参观通道、休息区、吸烟区、WC区等布局合理，感觉很人性化，在这里如果你习惯了不喝热水，园内有很多涉及独特的水龙头，用水杯接了可直接饮用，水质比国内的瓶装矿泉水还好。进植物园虽然免费，但园内游人并不太多。曲径通幽处，漫步走来很是宁静和惬意，是城市中难得的休憩之地。感受新加坡之一——漫步岛国看狮城干净清新亦繁华（概述篇）https//bbs.8264.com/thread-2172957-1-1.html感受新加坡之二——休闲小岛走不停亚洲最南寻风情（圣淘沙篇）https//bbs.8264.com/thread-2172957-1-1.html感受新加坡之四——绿意充盈总统府世外桃源乌敏岛（总统府等篇）https//bbs.8264.com/forum.php?mod=viewthread&tid=2253589&page=1&extra=#pid55203314感受新加坡之五——海风轻拂鱼尾狮流光溢彩夜迟迟（滨海湾篇）https//bbs.8264.com/thread-2255988-1-1.html感受新加坡之六——狮城国花胡姬花千姿百态芬芳开（胡姬花篇）https//bbs.8264.com/forum.php?mod=viewthread&tid=2299743&page=1&extra=#pid58352540感受新加坡之七——小印度里寻缩影甘榜格南回族情（新加坡河等篇）https//bbs.8264.com/thread-2322447-1-1.html 感受新加坡之八——立体交通路纵横街道小区绿充盈（交通和街道篇）https//bbs.8264.com/thread-2326625-1-1.html 感受新加坡之九——狮城春节气息浓牛车水里最喜庆（春节和牛车水篇）https//bbs.8264.com/thread-2330106-1-1.html感受新加坡之十——方式灵活有初院环境优美好校园（南初篇）https//bbs.8264.com/thread-2344728-1-1.html感受新加坡之十一——享誉全球名高校环境优雅美校园（南大篇）https//bbs.8264.com/thread-2354269-1-1.html 新加坡植物园在新加坡的位置图新加坡植物园内平面分布图刚进入植物园，就是满眼的绿色。热带花卉盛开巨大的热带植物棕榈树随处可见树木总是很茂盛园中的瀑布绿树丛中的史前时期植物绿树遮掩的园中小径史前时期的地貌史前时期的地质构造带史前时期的树木园中的野蘑菇野蘑菇随处可见巨大的柳树盛开的热带花卉花卉满园这种热带花卉很奇特，你能叫上名字吗？黄色的热带花卉红艳艳的热带花卉原始森林中的小径这种花处处可见新加坡植物园的志性图景高大的棕榈树茂盛的热带植物园中的小鸟并不怕人休憩之处白色的凉亭([

9视频1破解版无限看

王依昀

我一向不喜欢跟团旅游，自2006年开始自助游后，更是一发不可收拾，向往途中那自由自在的感觉。在国内数次周游后，便希望往国外跑。但自己一不会开车，二不会英语，觉得出国自驾游似乎与我无缘，只是奢想吧。偶尔在与有点明白的闲聊中，得知他要到澳洲自驾游，他问：“你去吗？”，我大喜过望，回答是干脆利落的一个字：“去！”。接下来一连串的准备事项，诸如策划行程、证、买机票等都拜托有点明白搞定。还买了睡袋、防潮垫等，原想到时寻找佳景露营，最后我嫌要带的东西较多，就只带了睡袋，放弃露营。只可惜有点明白背了一大背囊的装备，也没派上用场。为了一偿驾驶房车的夙愿，有点明白在网上捡了小梁和猫猫，我们租了辆奔驰六人房车，准备用11天，到国内同胞比较陌生的塔斯马尼亚和大洋路走走。塔岛太大了，太美了，就是玩一个月也不够，几天的时间，只能是走走而已。我在几个月的等待和希冀中，夹杂着一丝忐忑：异国他乡的路好走吗？右舵车能开得惯吗？同行的网友好相处吗......？这些疑虑在旅途中，很快就消除了（这是后话)。行程：第一天：广州飞吉隆坡。第二天：异国他乡的除夕夜。第三天阳光灿烂的亚瑟港，果园的车厘子。第四天：名镇的石桥、教堂，树顶漫步。第五天：霍巴特(Hobart)撒拉曼卡市集（Salamanca Market）,古迹公路的小镇奥特兰（Oatlands）、罗斯。第六天：一尘不染的罗斯（Ross）镇，葡萄酒庄与湿地黑天鹅，酒杯湾。第七天：邂逅野树莓海湾，夜访小企鹅。第八天：休闲企鹅镇，惊艳斯坦利镇（STANLEY）。第九天：斯坦利出海看海狮。第十天：告别美丽的塔岛，登上塔斯马尼亚精神号。十一天：托基、高尔夫球场的袋鼠、洛恩、森林营地的考拉。十二天：晨曦中的考拉、在直升飞机上鸟瞰十二使徒，最后的营地。十三天：墨尔本的亚拉河畔。十四天：墨尔本的联邦广场、圣保罗教堂。十五天：墨尔本到广州。第一天：广州飞吉隆坡。凌晨1点半从广州飞吉隆坡，5点半到达，晚上11点多飞墨尔本，本来可以到市区逛逛，但一宿没睡好，我们都觉疲累，再也不想奔波，就在机场酒店租了个钟点房，养精蓄锐，期待明天的精彩旅程！吉隆坡机场酒店。第二天：异国他乡的除夕夜。凌晨坐12点多的夜机飞墨尔本。机仓宽大舒服，一觉醒来，也快到墨尔本了。今天最令我们担心的是：10点到墨尔本，12点就要飞往塔岛的霍巴特，早就听说澳洲入境手续繁复，若稍有拖延登不了机，即使能改机票，那每人几百个大洋也打水漂了，弄得我三人心里直发毛！多谢上天眷顾，诸事顺利，待我们办好了各种手续后，还有时间慢慢地叹番件热狗，再悠哉游哉地登机。机场餐厅8刀一份的热狗，大份好味，两人吃也饱了。在机上鸟瞰塔岛大地。“塔斯马尼亚（Tasmania）位于澳大利亚南面，是澳大利亚最小的州，面积只有67,800平方公里，也是澳大利亚唯一的岛州，地处巴尔斯海峡以南，与澳洲本土的南部海岸隔海相望，距离墨尔本仅一小时（或悉尼 90 分钟）的飞行航程。拥有与世隔绝的独特的地理环境，塔斯曼尼亚百分之四十的地区被列为国家公园和自然保护区，为塔斯马尼亚披上了神秘的面纱。200年前这里曾英国流放重刑犯人的地方，多少恐怖耸人的往事传说记载在历史的铁幕岁月中。今天塔斯马尼亚成为了澳洲知名的观光胜地，森林覆盖率位于全澳之首，这里有原始茂密的国家森林公园，天然纯净的原始湖泊，澳洲遗产阿瑟港旧监狱等。如此古老而美丽的地方使它成为了世界上最令人神往的目的地之一。大洋路是澳大利亚政府为纪念一战中牺牲的战士修筑的，整条公路顺着海岸线开拓，一边靠着蔚蓝的海，一边靠着山，山边是百万年风化的奇岩怪石，蜿蜒曲折，风景壮观，沿途勾勒出海洋与陆地撞击而成的鬼斧神工，展示出闻名世界的自然奇观，景致动人心魄，在众多的海岸公路中，可甚称是路途最崎岖、最美丽的观光地。” 脚踏实地后，第一件事就是在机场选取塔岛的地图和各种旅游资料（至关重要，全部免费），再与网上结识的两位素未谋面的俊男靓女会合，随即赶往附近的租车点取车。我们这次自驾游的朋友：1有点明白——此行的筹划者，一切行程计划、租车租营地、我的证等全靠于他，还兼副驾。最牛的是，只要地图在手，他就是我们澳洲行的指路明灯，典型的活体GPS。牛！2 皑皑——主驾+大厨，虽是首次开右舵车，但很快就驾轻就熟，英姿飒爽地驾驶着大房车，奔驰在塔岛和大洋路，一路上可是领受了无数的注目礼的哦，真可谓“引无数英雄竞折腰”！一路上更为我们做了很多蛋糕蛋挞，强！3 小梁——懒于考驾照，在东南亚蒲了N次，最拿手就是煮咖啡和煎焗肉扒，对于行程上的东东一概不管，自嘲“做个跟屁虫跟到底！”，人却是很随和的，哈！ 4 猫猫——事业型女孩，虽有驾照却不喜欢开车，也是多次进出东南亚，不善家务，主动承领餐后洗碗工作。呃！5 木子lili——就是在下，“二不”人员：不会开车，不会英语，但能煲“阿妈靓汤”，炒小菜更是不在话下，只是澳洲菜比肉贵，强项被埋没了，就煮好淀粉质食物和靓汤弥补吧！汗！ 9天来，我们驾车（我是坐车的随行人员，嘻嘻！）穿行在塔岛上，饱览了无尽的荒原、大片的牧场、安静详和的小镇、多弯的丛林、美丽的海岸。住进大海边、小河旁、村镇里、树林中的各种汽车营地，体验了自驾游的无穷乐趣。“1点半抵达Hobart,急急忙忙找到租车点，做个了自助登记，连驾驶证都没有亮，老外就扔来一个便携DVD机及钥匙--到车上自己看DVD研究去吧。里里外外，研究了大半个小时，想着边玩边学吧，于是打火，走人。话说其实右呔车没传说中那么难适应，这奔驰的房车很快也就上手了。（摘自有点明白的游记）”这是机场旁边的租车公司。待租的车辆。先亮亮伴随我们多天的大家伙，里面可是样样俱全的啊！澳洲是自驾游天堂，并非浪得虚名。（以下为网上资料） “首先，澳洲地广人稀，但在这样幅员辽阔的国土上拥有发达的公路网。其次，澳洲公路网沿途有美不胜收的景色，蓝天白云下，当你驾驶爱车走过牛羊成群的牧场，擦过英式田园乡村，路过怀旧的澳洲小镇，穿过恍如隔世般的热带雨林，你不会不被这移步换景的沿途风光所陶醉。第三，澳洲道路能给驾驶者带来刺激。当你在幽静的盘山路中快速通过数不尽的弯道，当你在悬崖峭壁的海岸线上追逐日出日落，你不会不感到驾驶的乐趣所在。第四，澳洲政府为自驾游客提供了完善周到的配套服务，让你能够在旅途中安枕无忧。每隔30公里的加油站和休息区为你提供从免费打气、免费洗车到快餐连锁、休闲娱乐在内的各种服务，“游客中心”则是为你排忧解难，解惑释疑的百事通，房车及露营营地为以车为家的房车游客提供了从充电、沐浴到烹调做菜在内的各种生活设施，遍布全澳的汽车租赁公司网点，随时为“自驾车”游客提供技术支援。由澳洲旅游部推荐、澳洲人及外国游客公认的最佳自驾游路线：时间，1000公里，让你感受大山的宁静，体验冲浪的刺激，沐浴瀑布的芬芳，膜拜十二门徒的尊容；五、南澳州环州游，8天时间，1600公里，有美酒佳肴陪伴你；六、澳北探寻红河谷与巨石，7天时间，1200公里，探访一片红色的土七、西澳淘金之旅，14天时间，2千公里，去看看为什么这片土地无论在过去的淘金年代还是在现在的资源大开发时代，都为澳洲人带来滚滚财富。” 一、昆士兰州热带风情路，两周时间，2千公里路程，让你欣赏到一幅从大海到莽原的壮丽画卷；二、新南威尔士州南部海岸之旅，8天时间，1000公里，让你从海港城市悉尼到澳洲首都堪培拉，感受南十字星座下这两座城市的魅力；三、世外桃源塔斯马尼亚岛之旅。8天时间，1000公里路程，让你在世外桃源里欣赏天造地设、鬼斧神工的自然景观；四、维多利亚州南部之旅，7天我们这次选的是“三、世外桃源塔斯马尼亚岛9天之旅”和“四、维多利亚州南部3天之旅，”，总行程二千几公里。借用“迪车会”照片一张，在此谢过！房车内的配置厨房：四头煤气炉，微波炉，锅碗瓢盆全在柜子里。到汽车营地接上水电，就可做饭。餐柜—全是六份厨房的沙发一拉开，就是双人床。电视机，可放VCD。有好几个这样的柜子，可放杂物。洗手间——因不想每日清理嘘嘘和臭臭，这里就成了储物间。每个汽车营地都有洗手间，方便得很。型仔驾车，出发啦！"说今晚住的地方没有任何商场，于是便途中在Sorell进行了好大一番采购。（有点明白）”买来的食品堆满了车上的冰箱——以肉为主，还有果汁和牛奶，那可是比矿泉水还便宜的。“ 往Pt Arthur的路上经过Eaglehawk Neck,原计划明天在这里潜两瓶气看海龙和海狮，于是顺路到潜店里了解了一下。经过对价格及水温、无潜导等各种因素的考虑，确定放弃潜水的计划。（有点明白）”。四个潜水发烧友非常郁闷，我却在一旁窃喜：不用担心他们的安全了——欺山莫欺水啊！留到东南亚潜个够路上风景。傍晚七半点左右便到了预订的Kevin Cottage,车就停在河边(后来发现原来这里应该算海)。在Hotel,Motel,Inn,B&B,Cottage各种名字的住处选择间,我通常偏好Cottage,因为Cottage通常意味着数量极少的民宅. 并通常隐藏在乡下郊外,而我们订的这家也如是.整片区域只有7-8间房子.老板Denis拥有其中四间,一间自住,另外三间分别叫The Classic Cottage,Kevin Cottage, 和The Old Ockwood. 169刀可以在如此安静优美的环境下住五个人,我们毫无疑问地定下。Denis（店老板）：‘Welcome，但我下班了，要不明早再来给我钱吧，钥匙已经在门上了。’（有点明白）”。我们今晚住的房子，靠山面海，鲜花环绕。温馨的客房，简单整洁。美女大厨：时间不早了，快做我们的年夜饭吧油焖大虾——嘻嘻哈哈！烧生蚝伴羊排——好事相伴。蒜蓉煎焗牛排——牛气冲天。白灼西蓝花——花开福贵！玉米马铃薯羊骨培根汤——盆满钵满！开饭啰！好一桌丰盛的年夜饭。举杯祝福遥远家乡里的亲人——新年快乐，如意吉祥！第三天阳光灿烂的亚瑟港，果园的车厘子。“塔斯马尼亚官方旅游图,红色的是我们途经的路线,黄点是每天的营地位置。（有点明白)”大年初一，先来一碗广式早餐。澳洲凡是大型超市都有李锦记的调味料和广东的米粉面条。再在空气超好的小阳台上叹一杯咖啡，惬意！([]

蜜月av星空传媒xk8013

杨心怡

热带丛林国家里，有着淳朴的民风、湛蓝的大海、神奇的建筑，这里是亚洲赤道部分，属于热带季风气候，终年高温多雨。对于吴哥窟的敬仰，琅勃拉邦的憧憬，越南越美的期待，在心里早已萌生冲动。但手指肌腱的断裂，日本友人“河源启一郎”自行车的丢失，让平静的生活，变得厄运连绵，导致计划无限延期。二次手术过后，为逃脱找个理由，背起包包、拿起相机，踏上征途，让所谓的霉运，紧跟远征的步伐，让它烟飞灰灭。而重新行走在路上，却是种勇气的坚持，因为我知道，明天即将不在年轻，也是自我内心激烈斗争后的抉择，也许我们可以失去所有，但对自由的信仰依旧无法改变。而这次东南亚之行，有着里程碑式的意义，怀着忐忑不安的心情，踏上了第一次出境的道路。从南宁出境、西双版纳入境，横跨四个国家，也是对其文化、地理、历史等全方位的了解，增加的是眼界，丰富的是知识，也是对生命的一次逾越及挑战。通过Couchsurfing来行走，也是一种全新的旅行尝试，寻找免费住宿的Host，融入当地人的生活之中，由他们的指引，可以更加便捷地了解其城市精髓，芽庄的欢乐、西贡的喧嚣、高棉的微笑，都传递着湄公河两岸，最真实的生活写照。有些事现在不做，一辈子就没有机会再做，等有钱了再去旅行，等有时间再去旅行，岁月就在等待中流逝，有了钱未必有时间，有了时间未必有钱，有了钱有了时间，也许已步入花之甲年，有了钱有了时间，又未必会有好身体，未来就是个未知数，人生苦短，何不趁着年轻、趁着没有家庭的责任的时候，然后收拾行装奔向远方，让世界留下自己的脚印，用相机定格瞬间，留给年迈后的子孙。当我们不去旅行，我们就无法知道外面的世界，是如此丰富而精彩。世界是本书，它让我们快乐，也使我们悲伤，它让我们思考，也交我们成长，不旅行的人只看到其中的一页，不出去走走看看，你就会以为这就是世界。而真正意义的旅行，是从一个人上路开始，因为只有独处的时候，才能面对内心纯粹的自己，方能了解生命的本真。而周围的人们，更多的是对独自旅行，抱以嗤之以鼻的态度，认为这是孤独且无趣的行为，他们更情愿扎堆申报旅行团。完全被传统思想所禁锢。而独自旅行，能给予精神上巨大的财富，锻炼独立精神、增长自身阅历、了解地理文化，它其实就是最完美的素质教育。人在旅途中，选择最便宜的交通方式，每到一座城市，为了节省旅宿费，背着大包小包，挨家挨户讨价还价，是对精神及肉体的双重考验，也伴随着酸甜苦辣，只因为热爱着旅行，有颗年轻而渴望自由的灵魂，年轻本无畏，只为花费最少的钱，去走遍万水千山。东南亚de行程中国：南宁西双版纳昆明重庆越南：河内顺化会安岘港芽庄大叻美奈西贡柬埔寨：金边暹粒上丁老挝：巴色万象琅勃拉邦我的微薄：奇丫的微博我的豆瓣：https//www.douban.com/people/zw187114229/我的人人：https//www.renren.com/746231855Facebook zw85683121@live.cn行走中国 100 多座城市的游记及攻略：https//forum.chinabeibao.com/forum.php?mod=viewthread&tid=35535 如果你喜欢可以加我为好友，我们一起分享旅途的开心，以及各个地方的旅途攻略。并借组8264户外网，有个支言片语的地方，能够结交更多志同道合的朋友。。。。绿城南宁 P 3越南越美自助旅行攻略 p 6 河内，法式建筑里的迷宫 p 6顺化，皇城下的奥黛 p 9岘港，世界50个必去地之一 p 11 摩托车骑行岘港是段难忘的经历会安古城 p 22 精致的古城，五彩斑斓的灯笼芽庄的沙发主 P 28 嗨到爆的芽庄四岛游 P30 这个四岛游强烈推荐，有图有真相美奈，美的无可奈何 P34童话般的大叻 P37 绿树蓝天非常漂亮的小山城夜夜笙歌的西贡 p44柬埔寨自助游攻略 p48战争后的金边 p48世界奇迹，吴哥窟 p51吴哥之美 Angkor wat p62 吴哥的震撼是用语言无法表达得巴戎寺，高棉的微笑 p68 这便是嚯嚯有名的高棉的微笑了古墓丽影，塔布戎寺 p71 这里有种穿越时空天人合一的力量巴肯神山，世界最美日落 p74女王宫变身寺高布思滨 p77静谧的琅勃拉邦 p82 这是个非常特别的小城，人们都信仰着佛教山城重庆 p88 重庆是个不错的山城，值得慢慢品味芽庄的海会安古城美丽的山城大叻美奈，美的无可奈何夜夜笙歌的西贡世界奇迹，吴哥 Angkor wat古墓丽影，塔布戎寺巴肯神山，世界最美日落地之一静谧的琅勃拉邦绿城南宁关于南宁的记忆，依旧停留在五年以前，那些年青涩的我们，作为毕业旅行，而来到广西南宁。对这座边陲首府，印象颇为深刻，满城皆绿的植被，密密麻麻覆盖整座城市。漫步在街头巷尾，粗壮挺拔的大树比比皆是，在树荫的庇护下，成为避暑乘凉之地，“绿城”之名也因此得来。民族大道笔直的棕榈树、中山路美味可口的小吃、邕江边悠闲散步的人群，都依旧历历在目，仿佛就在昨天，不曾走远过。然而时间得奔腾，在岁月里却从未停歇过。广西首府南宁，距离越南首都河内，仅仅三百公里路程，这次东南亚之行，所以把其作为起始点。而这趟旅程也从踏上，K5次列车开始，正式拉开序幕。本着节省路费，行迹天涯的目的，选择了最便宜的方式。然而旅途的刚刚开始，就已经痛苦难耐，硬座车厢内挤满着，各处务工者，把本就窄小的过道，塞着水泄不通，连臭气熏天的厕所口，也被挤得满满当当，有些无座者瞌睡难耐，便干脆沿着板凳，竖躺在脏兮兮的过道中。人数之众多，导致空气的不畅通，有种想立即逃脱的冲动，而十七个小时的煎熬，也是对精神耐力的最大考验。翌日后的傍晚，强烈的热流，迎面而拂来，空气中夹杂着，南方特有的潮湿气味，这种闷热难耐的气候，导致汗腺无法排出，混身黏糊糊，让人难以适应，然而它的湿度、它的味道，却又那么亲切而熟悉。离开火车站，琨崽已等候多时，而因为证问、出境前的准备工作，在南宁借宿其宅下。六天短暂的停留，生活过的简单而悠闲。清晨骑着自行车，兜风于城区之中，以这样的节奏，与它亲密接触。民族广场白鸽肆意飞舞，棕榈树星罗密布，邕江边锻炼的人影络绎不绝。再次回眸后的它，多了几分喧嚣，城市大兴土木后，灰尘扑鼻而来，摩托车堵满街道，让原有的印象荡然无存，人生若只如初见。广艺依靠着小南湖，Kiki 和 Cici是这里表演系的学生，漫步于南湖畔边，聚集了数家，别有小资情调的酒吧、咖啡馆，用镜头把这里美丽，扑捉进相机，然后挥一挥衣袖，说声再见。中山路夜市，是南宁最热闹的小吃街，夜幕降临后，人群挤满街道，各式美食任君挑选，鱿鱼、生蚝、扇贝，甚至连鳄鱼都摆上了餐桌。每天傍晚与蒋姐、毛哥吃晚饭，成了必修课程，酒桌上天马行空的乱侃，然而话锋一转，又跳转到了，那位日本友人丢车事件了。深夜百乐迪KTV里，依旧歌舞升天。看看手表，已经凌晨二时，似乎有高歌通宵，来日抱头死睡的架势。而一首“朋友”曲目后，让曾经记忆的碎片，不知不觉被唤醒了。清晨骑单车南宁小南湖南宁中山路小吃一条街雨过天晴后的城市，显得格外凉爽舒适，这样适宜的天气，强迫琨崽和舒杰一起打篮球，减去身体多余脂肪。挥汗如雨的健儿，透彻和煦的阳光，让自己有触碰篮球的欲望，想急停跳投、想肆意突破、想单打得分，没有什么时候，比现在更想去打篮球，只有大汗淋漓的释放，才能有最好的解脱。然而一切得一切，仅仅只是幻想，因为我清楚，现在的身体状态，是无法进行如此激烈

健身教练第92话-吃饭前要先吃妳

邓仪绍

Northern Wilderness, Solo Traverse of the Great Chang TangMr YANG Liusong, a Chinese who just finished the first solo traverse over Chang Tang by cycling from west to east in recorded human history, shared his stunning Expedition with all of us through the forum 8264 https//bbs.8264.com/thread-512349-1-1.html . In order to share his legendary journey with those who cannot read Chinese, I translate his story to English here, which has been approved by Mr YANG Liusong. Hope you guys enjoy it.为了让杨同学的传奇能让全世界的驴友分享，俺决定把杨同学的帖子翻译成英文。为了避免麻烦，俺先来个免责声明：1。杨同学不认识俺，也没有授权俺，如果他说不要翻译了那俺就随时终止；2。俺没有商业目的，译版版权归杨同学，俺啥也不要，也不承担法律责任；3。没有杨同学授权，不敢擅自发在国外网站，发在原帖处，荣誉归8264；4。俺英语水平有限，欢迎指正，欢迎转贴。 Northern Wilderness, Solo Traverse of the Great Chang TangBy Yang LiusongIt has been three months since I traversed the unpopulated region in the Great Chang Tang. There are many like-minded asking me about it. I now present this thread to briefly tell everybody about my journey.The starting point of this traverse was from the highest peak of the western part of the Tibetan plateau, Jieshan Daban, and the day was April 20, 2010.I was heading eastward passing Bungdag Co, Yanghu Co, Rola Co, and Kangzhagri Mountain, which crossed over the desolate region from west to east. The journey continued northward to enter the unpopulated area of Altun Mountains, through Hoh Xil Mountains, Kunlun Mountains, Whale lake, ..., finally met some people by the Aqqikkol Hu and then arrived in Huatugou by vehicle three days later and that day was July 5. It had been 77 days in total. I had been all alone 74 days after leaving Jieshan Daban until arriving inAqqikkol Hu, which was about 1400km and about four months.[The Great Chang Tang] In Tibetan, "Chang Tang" means northern empty wilderness while narrowly, means unpopulated region in northern part of Tibet. However, it actually indiCATes all of the no man's land in northern. The great Chang Tang includes desolate places in Northern Tibet, Hoh Xil, Alun Mountains, and Kunlun Mountains, which are interconnected to form the unique and super empty wilderness in the world. Only because Hoh Xil is the most known name, most people just think this vast land is equivalent to Hoh Xil. In reality, Hoh Xil is only a small piece of the Great Chang Tang both administratively and geologically. The Great Chang Tang, the last land to chase your freedom and dream.The route that I traversed ForeplayI arrived in Tibet in the early March, a couple of troubles bothered me. The brand new plug got its positive and negative wrongly connected; the rivets of my rucksack eASIly got broken from now and again; and a multi-functional charger got damaged and so on. Riding my bike to Ngari for warming up of this journey, lost my rucksack but later got it back; lost my camera bag and got it back later again, and finally lost a big bicycle pannier in the street of Gyangze town under the eyes of police, including clothes, solar panel and so on.Without much choice, I returned to Lhasa to adjust all the stuff I would need in the wilderness. Then I begged some luck by going to Nyingchi to enjoy the blossoms of peach trees and to take a hot spring bath. I even had the privilege to enjoy time with ten girls in the hot spring. I felt my bad luck had all gone and then returned to Lhasa again to prepare going to Ngari. I did not expect that I was cheated on by some hustler and lost some money and delayed my schedule for a week. I had to find a car myself quickly to Nagri. However, I lost the tool for fast-parting my rear wheel on my way to Nagri, where was a remote area in Tibet and nowhere to buy the tool. Even if there was one in Lhasa it would take at least ten days for a special delivery service. I was lucky that my mate Duola asked a driver to bring the tool for me from Lhasa. I thought there should be no more nightmare like this but the nozzle of my brand new multi-fuel stove was broken. The next day I tried everywhere to weld them back together. The first three shops could not do the welding for copper. The fourth one said they could do it but could not guarantee a sUCCess. The engineer said it would be ten Chinese yuans if it was a success. I agreed. Just in seconds, my nozzle became crap in a flash of lightening. I was so upset. Again, Duola helped me by bringing her own MSR oil stove and Dingding's sleeping bag to Nagri. That was already April 16 and I did not have much time to waste. The following day I found a vehicle heading to Jieshan Daban.The sand storm over Yarlung Zangbo RiverA lonely peach tree blossoming in Yarlung Zangbo Grand CanyonNatural hot spring in wild, me singing and drinking (photo by a friend of mine) Day 1(April 20), 16km, Camping 5192mIt was a truck with a full load of iron wastes, arriving in Jieshan Daban at 6'o clock in the morning. It was still night and extremely cold and dark. Driver was not bothered to pop his head out of the driving cab. I climbed up on the top of the iron wastes, taking my bicycle down. In a hurry, I punched my old water bag. Fortunately I had another MSR water bag given by a friend of mine otherwise I would definitely fail without even starting my journey. For the first time for me to set up the brand new tent in strong, cold winds. It would be impossible to do so if the tent was not a whole piece. Extremely cold outside, about -15C, might be lower than that, I put my head into the sleeping bag but was nearly suffocated to death, honestly. The smell of Dingding's sleeping bag was, lol, so extraordinary. I woke up around 11 o'clock. There were still strong winds outside so that I had to use my bodyweight to keep the tent in place. At the time when I just started to cook and eat, four patrolling soldiers approached me. To their surprise someone, in this season, camped in Jieshan Daban. I was so nervous and afraid they were the people to block my journey because I was caught and deported from the desolate land last year. Luckily the four soldiers did not know my destination and were very kind to me. After they left, I immediately packed my stuff and pushed my bike into the depths of the unpopulated area just in case anything unexpected happened.The bike was very heavy due to the provisions and hard to control. There was even a quite small hill that I had to remove my bike panniers to get over it. This really struck me because this happened even the path was still the hardship one at the moment and I could not imagine what I would do once I entered the uncertain, endless wilderness. Until now I had not met anyone, even the nomadic pastoralists. I remembered there were quite a few of them roaming at the edge of the northern Tibetan plateau last year. All of these indicated it was not the good pasture season in such low temperature and strong winds. Around 16km there was a sheep cote, where I passed it last year, east of Lungmu Co. I was exhausted at this point so that I decided to camp in here and to rest my head. After arranging tent everything I went out to look for the wetland discovered by Duola and Liumeng last year. I was determined to find it.There were many hot springs in the wetland which were underground water with a constant temperature. The wetland therefore became an ideal habitat for some fishes and weeds under such harsh weather, which was the very unique land feature of terrain in this over 5200m highland.Perpetual snow in the valley blown to corn shape by strong windsThis wetland was discovered by Duola and Liumeng. The workers at a nearby mine did not know it and I too missed it last yearUnderground water with a constant temperature, an ideal habitat for some fishes and weeds under such icy weather 感谢大伙儿支持和加分，不一一回复了。特别感谢多啦，希望能有机会一起喝酒吃肉。 Day 2 (April 21), 0km, Camping5192mBlustering gale all night, up and down like ocean waves. The next day rather than continuing to travel, I stayed inside the sheep cote, hesitating and pondering over. Indeed, there were so many problems before this journey;I did not have sufficient physical preparation;the load had already reached its limitation; I still coughed a lot;the weather was so extreme and cold. All in all, I did not think this journey was well prepared and I did not have confidence in completing this journey mentally and physically. To do, or not to do, it was the question. Similarly I did not have confidence in my facilities, not knowing whether all of them would work functionally or not. The fact was one of the rivets got broken again and the front rack came loose. In the afternoon, I replaced all the rivets of the panniers with screws I had prepared before. This was an excellent job I had done which gave me no further troubles throughout my whole journey. I also re-adjusted the front rack. However I did not think it would definitely all right because I did not have a tool to do it. When the darkness descended,I made up my mind to continue my journey, which, of course, was not beyond any imagination. Orchid-like weedsSmall springs everywhere, clear and chillyA thin layer of ice covering the fresh spring water The sheep cote, it was the door under the sleeping bag, which was in the same place as last year, everything looked like yesterdayThe wetland at duskLungmu Co at dusk. You could hear the gigantic sound of wind if the picture had a sound Day 3 (April 22), 52.4km, Camping 5145mGot up in the morning, could not put everything into the bags. Without much choice I had to throw away three portions of tsampa, elbow pads, and crampons. Following the road of the lead-zinicmine I found the side path to enter the wilderness, which was on the riverbed and very hard to see. I missed this side path last year so that I had to take a short cut into the wilderness directly then. That was why I had taken extra care to find the side path. The following journey was to get over a big hill, which lay 5275m above sea level and was the highest point of my whole journey. Around 2 o'clock in the afternoon, I passed the side path leading to Orba Co and started a journey which was complete strange to me. I ate a piece of pilot breads, which was frozen like rocks so that I had to use my spade to crush it. At 6 o'clock in the evening, I had pushed plus rode my bicycle for about 32 km. I reckoned I should have been able to double this if I did no carry such heavy load. The wind became stronger and stronger. I opened the parasail kits and tested it. The result was far beyond what I expected. With the aid of the strong wind I was just like flying over the wilderness. After 8 o'clock in the evening, I started to observe the water Source and to get ready to camp. Map showed there were successive springs along the path and assembled to puddles. But I had overestimated the water source here in this land and in this season there were endless wilderness inside the valley, where I could not see a single drop of water. As it became darker and darker, I felt a little bit nervous which resulted in three spokes of the parasail broken and became a useless rubbish. Anyway, it helped me to move forward 20km more which benefited me a lot later on. When time approached 9.30 pm, it was almost completely dark. I had to lie my bike on the ground and went on to try to find water on the north side of the valley. This was a wide and flat sandy land, where I could not see any ditches there and further was complete darkness. I returned to get my GPS to look up the contours and found the south part of the valley was closer to a hill so I took the way. Finally I found a piece of ice in a ditch. I smashed about 20litre of ice. The ice was quite shallow scattered with sheep poo. On my way back, my eyes were hurt by strong winds, which got me a couple of days to recover. It was nearly 23 o'clock after I set up the tent. It also took about 40 mins to melt the ice. I was so tired and my appetite was completely spoiled. I then had a little bit of milk. I had never expected thing would go like this, it was so distressing. Streams along the path, ice everywhereThe river flew into Matou Hu, in whose north part there was a satellite lake, a wonderful ice-skating court It took 40mins to melt the ice in midnight Day 4 (April 23), 31km, Camping 5028mA cloudy day with gusts. From now and again, hails chased me from behind. Sunny spell. Heavy sandy land made me have to push my bike. At 3pm, I arrived at Luxing Hu, where there was a house made of clay. This was the last permanent building of my journey. Last year, Duola and Liumeng once lived in this house for three days without meeting anybody. It seemed it was the same but the truck parking in front of the house made me worry about. I went to the sheep cote first to check over, where there were only a few lambs following me everywhere I went later on. This made me feel warm in my heart. I observed farther places using my binoculars but could not see any people or sheeps. After making sure there were no people around I opened the locked door using a screwdriver. The living room was very clean. There were two boxes of beverages on the ground and a string of cured lamb legs hanging over in the interior room. A pot of water was on the top of the stove, lukewarm, which indicated the host must be not far away from his home. I filled up my water bag and left the house. I also put the screws back to the door in order not to leave any trace of my visiting. I then took a spanner from the toolbox of the truck, which gave me great help for the rest of the journey.I left the house as quickly as possible. After last year's experience, the nomadic pastoralists were the last people I wanted to meet. A few hundred meters away from the house, the vehicle traces were fading fast. Even downhill, I had to push rather than to ride because of the heavy loose sand. From the route point of view, only after Luxing Hu it was the real unpopulated land. After many days, I thought of the lamb legs from time to time. It was pity that I then had plenty of provisions and the bike was too heavy to carry anything more. Continue to melt the ice under the morning sunshine, all of the sheep poo had been removed carefullyCamping site, the little hill over there was the place where I got the ice last nightThe house by the Luxing Hu, empty, the last permanent building I saw throughout my journeyDay 5 (April 24), 19.8km, Camping 4951mSet off at 10.30 in the morning, the weather was similar to yesterday. Probably this road was the high plain or somewhere the wind passed so that it was so windy. The average wind speed was degree 6 but could reach degree 9 in the blick of an eye. The road was still full of sand and very heavy to walk on it. My eyes became worse under such harsh weather. About three o'clock in the afternoon, I saw something in my right, looked like antenna. I went closer to see what it was and found out it was an iron tower (the triangulation station). In 1970s, a joint team from Chinese three military regiments entered this area doing research. They have left a lot of triangulation stations and benchmarks, which I had the priviledge to see them today.At dusk, I approached to a spring by the Bungdag Co, which flew into the frozon lake. The sand and soil, brought by the strong wind, scattered on the surface of the ice all over the lake. There were so many cracks around the icey surface of the lake. I geussed it must be caused by the springs under the water rather than by melted ice. In the west of the Bungdag Co was the side path leading to Keriya Pass, where a SUV could reach directly. I had looked out any vehicle Tracks but failed. The cloudy sky started to snow. I set up the tent comfortably because I knew that I was safe having such a sweet spring beside me.Triangulation station erected by scientists from the joint research team on Chang Tang of three military regiments in 1971[size=+0]The gap between water and ice in Bungdag Co, I guessed there must be some springs under the lakeThe storm just above the ground, a chaotic darkness[size=+0]Icy Bungdag Co,one of the four biggest lakes in Northern Tibet, wild ducks flying over this vastness and lonenessSnowing at any time, should not happen so frequently like this in this seasonDay 6 (April 25), 4.3km, Camping 5002mWeathering landforms everywhere around this area. Spongy volcanic rocks could be found easily. I pushed my bike turning around a small hill, seeing a big river, the Yinshui He, flowing from Orba Co into Bungdag Co, which I had been to its upstream last year. It was also a passage for animal migration. The downstream of the river was extremely wide and broad. The thickess of the ice layer could reach one meter with the main stem in the middle course of the river, very deep. There were a few springs along the river, sweet and clear.I only went forward a little bit more than 4km but I had walked more than 20km for finding my way. It was not possible to cross the main stem, let alone the north bank of Bungdad Co. What I could only do was to try to find a shallow place to cross. But the southern area was a even larger piece of wetland and forced the road turn towards west. I spent a couple of hours but failed to find a good point to cross the river. In the afternoon, I decided to follow the edge of the wetland. When I reached the hill foot, the wetland finally disappeared. Around this area, there were clearly volcanic feature of terrain and I even found traces of pasturing and cairns made from volcanic rock.Here was the last pasturing trace I found throughout my journey, I guessed it was a summer pasture area. After this, there was no clear sign of human activities in this vast wilderness. I had been looking for my ways until it was dark. I made up my mind where to go TOMOrrow. The terrain here looked like Yardang landforms, as well as volcanic landforms The Yinshui He river from Orba CoSprings scattered all over the river bank, painted green by lovely algaeThe river was very deep. The mixture of green and amber colour showed the sand and mud carried by the melted iceThick layer of ice, sunken surface caused by strong gustsThe south course of the Yinshui He, countless small streams. To the right was the wetlandLooking for ways in the east, a trace of pasturing and the cairn made from spongy volcanic rocksMy camp, opposite to the hillDay 7 (April 26), 11km, Camping 5009mI moved forward to the direction I found yesterday, turning around the wetland and walking toward east. At 2pm, I was blocked by the zigzag Yinshui He again and I had no choice but to cross it. The river was about 700m wide, covered by ice which appeared very different. The hanging ice, the folding ice, the piling-up ice, the icy puddle, and the sleet were everywhere along the river bank. Having noticed all of these, I reckoned the river would be receding at dusk, which was why there were so many different shapes and forms of ice. I put my slipper on, going into the main stream of the river. I found there were at least three different courses of the river, the thickness of the surface ice varied and the river water reached above my knees. I sighed there would be no way back once I crossed this river. There are many ways in one's life too, you can only take it once and you will no long have the courage to repeat it.I pushed the bike crossing the river. Some of the ice was a bit soft, jamming the tyres so that I had to use my feet to break them first. Some of the ice was a bit thick but with half-melted underneath, sticking the the bike completely, some of the ice was half-water half-ice with a sandy riverbed, which was really hard to pass. I had to remove all of the panniers at the last stage of the crossing. I spent the whole four hours to cross the river, my legs got many bloody cuts. At 6pm, the surface ice was almost disappeared completely, the river level rapidly rising to a chaotic status. I thought if I hesitated a little bit at that time, I could not have the courage to cross this river under such circumstances. The river bank was unimaginably sandy and was quite steep. I had to unloaded the panniers again to reach the top of the bank. By the time of sunset, the weather became exceptionally good. The sunlight from the descending sun, the blue sky, the faint moon, .... I liked such a colorful and peaceful Chang Tang and very much enjoyed my camp and myself bathed in such beautiful colour.The ice like this was very thin and suspended, far away from the main stemHard surface with half-melted underneath, the soft sand at the botton was most scaryThe ice like this could easily jam the wheels, hard to get it outI had to unload the panniersChaotic water and terrible hails turned up in no timeThe Chang Tang at the moment liked it used to be,a mixture of cold and warm tones under the golden setting sun Day 8 (April 27), 14.6km, Camping 5112mLast night, I forgot to bring in the odometer, which was out of order due to the coldness in midnight. Since then I used GPS to check the mileage. The digital thermometer was no longer working. I had to use mercury thermometer to collect data. Night temperatures were basically between –15℃—–20℃ while the temperature inside my tent was about –10℃. The advantage of the integrated tent was that it limited the ventilation so to keep warm inside. However, it got clearly disadvantage of heavy condensation and dew. Every morning, there was plenty of frost inside the tent so that I had to put my hood on First Before fully getting dressed. The winds in Chang Tang finally became consistent with the pattern I had researched the other day no or very tiny wind in the morning, strong wind started after 2pm, and then at around 8pm its strength was reduced again. The accuracy of this prediction was about 80%.The road was very bad today. I walked whole afternoon in an ancient riverbed and it was so difficult that I had to use all of my strengths to move a small step forward and then to stop to breath, slower than a snail. After five hours' struggling, my eyes got wet when I saw the grassy river bank. Finally! The nightmare was over.Cold and clear morningHeavy morning condensation in the interior, a lot of frost to clearSuch dawning sunlight indicated a cloudy day ahead Day 9 (April 28), 18km, 5072mIn the morning I entered a range of sandy roads which were so terrible. The solar panel specially designed for GPS got short circuited. After checking it was found to be the diode got damaged. Luckily I got a replacement. Because the GPS was exclusively supplied by a solar panel so that it was no longer a problem for the power supplement of GPS. In a period of 70 days, I did replace the battery once, which saved me a lot of alkaline batteries. I did have another solar panel of 5.4 W which was used specifically for 7.5V Camera, DV and other digital facilities. Unlike water, I had never been short of power.At 7pm in the evening, I arrived at Pur Co. The surface of this lake was very odd the ice by the river bank rose and the river bank was broken, I reckoned that was due to the strong winds. The ice there was mingled with something yellow, could be the stain of alkali. There were many wild yaks on the other side of the lake. There could be two brown bears but I could not be for certain. On the east side of the lake, there was a peninsula leading to the centre of the lake. I camped just opposite to the peninsula. At night , I smashed the ice to get drinking water, which tasted alkali. For the first time I cooked the cereals, which was brought completely by accident. This was just because I found there was a little bit of extra space when I was in Nagri packing the stuff for this journey so that I bought two packs of cereals. It tasted disgusting, probably there was too much alkali in the water. I threw away half of it. Later I realised that probably I subconsciously felt that the provisions was so heavy. I would rather make it lighter at any cost.Dry all my stuff in the morning sun, a routine matterA faint dusk in Pur CoThe river bank pushed up by ice and opened like zipper by gustsThe pushed up surface of the iceThe place where I got my drinking water, a thin layer of ice behind the ablation corns The moment just before sun set, glittering Pur Co, nothing was the same差点儿没找到俺自己的帖子，原来变色了。多谢各位鼓励。 Day 10 (April 29), 16km, Camping 5141mIn the morning, I walked around the north bank of the Pur Co， where it were continuous ups and downs sprinkled with light yellow sprouts across the sparse grassland. The wild yaks clustered into small groups. All of a sudden, there was a group of five of them running towards me, blowing a huge cloud of dust with the power of thunderbolts,I believed that anyone who did not know the characters of the wild yaks must be frightened to death under such circumstances. The fact was the wild yaks in groups never injured people. Rushing to you just to show you its territory. When they approached people at certain distance, they would turn sharply and run away, and then stopped somewhere high to stare at you. You can not imagine that the wild yaks were very cautious animals compared with its almost one ton of weight. Their first reaction, when meeting people, was to raise their tails, the front hooves rubbing against the ground, the horns pointing forward, the eyes redden, and the long body hair shaking, all of which showed their determination to fight.This was the warning sign that you should retreat. However, you should realise that this was only a gesture that they were afraid of you and wanted to scare you away. The thing was that if you were not afraid of them and moved forward, they would run away in no time. There were only some mad yaks attacking people, which was really rare to happen. In Chang Tang, an experienced driver know that it is very dangerous to pass directly from two or three lonely wild yaks. They always tried to avoid confronting them directly. If this was not possible, they would lit a cigarette, smoking, to wait until the yaks walked away themselves. This was because the wild yaks really could attack vehicles, which was not completely rumors. I once asked them why I had not been attacked. They told me that because my bike was so small they would not be bothered to attack it. My own experience was that approaching a wild yak very slowly, do not look into its eyes, and ignored what it was doing. As long as it moved forward a little bit, just stop and give the yaks a little bit of time to think. Because if you forced the yak, it could be themost dangerous animal in the world and nothing could stop them killing. Even a gunshot could not kill it but only left a small hole in its skin. In the past, the nomads living near this land would use yaks' skin as chopping board which was very much endurable. At noon, I lost my balacLAVA, which was brand new and I had never used it once. I could not be bothered to go back tofind it. This resulted in that I had to have my fleece hat day and night in the rest of my journey, which did not provide fully protection from the sun in the plateau. But somehow I was all right, perhaps because my skin is similar to those of yaks, lol. At around half past one, I found a deserted Jeep, upside down. I felt it could be there for years and it could be the vehicle of someillegal HUNTERs. Nowadays, we have wildlife conservation reserves in Chang Tang and the animals here are well protected. However, some people kills the wild yaks to sell them as the domestic yak's meat. In general, it is worth 10,000 Chinese yuans for a single wild yak. Therefore many people take the risk to make money. They often enter the unpopulated areas to hunt and their activities can reach 200 km in diameter. This is why the wild yaks in the deep wilderness are less afraid of people than thoseat the boundaries of the Chang Tang region.There once happened that a wild yak mother revenged its baby's murder in the Altun mountains. Its horns pierced the killer's chest and held his body over its head for more than ten days, which was very touching.Around 3pm, I walked out of the Pur basin. The next point was Hong Shan Daban and then it was the Yueya Hu by the Toze Gangri. At this time I found a vehicle track from south to north. I checked over but could not find the way where they had gone. I took my map, GPS, and compass, climbing up a small hill to estimate the location of Hong Shan Daban. The mountain was very round and it was hard to find the mountain pass. After determining the location of the Daban, I moved straightforward. When I passed a messy grassland, I saw something that I was reluctant to see more than hundreds of wild yaks' head scattered all over, which was definitely the scene of the illegal hunting. After that it was a very long ancient river bed with soft sand slowly rising until the foot of the mountain.There are some spines on the surface of the tongues of wild yaks, which are used by nomads in this area as combs. They use them from their teens to the time when their hair becomes silver.The deserted Jeep, could be left by illegal hunters years agoThe slaughtered wild yaks with the wheel size heads. Some of the skulls were chopped into half. Why was that? Could be taken away for making combs?My camp at the foot of the Daban underthe lingering golden rays of the setting sun. Tomorrow's weather must be wonderful, I reckoned Day 11(April 30)， 20.4km, Camping 5120mThe surface of the road leading to Hong Shan Daban was very hard, most of them were small rocks, sort of gravels, plus a quite long downhill slope, I pushed my bike more than 20km for the first time after Luxing Hu. The mountain pass was quite flat, just like a broad ridge, it was 5256m above the sea level. Upon arriving at the pass, Toze Gangri of 6356m was in my sight clearly, very much round and there was no back bone like normal snow covered mountains. Most of the snow mountains in Chang Tang looked like this probably it was due to the geological movements. There were quite a few chirus or Tibetan antelopes in the valley but I was not interested in this kind of animals anymore after I witnessed a large scale of migration of such animals last year elsewhere.The herbivorous animals here are very quick to reach its original size of the population, such as wild yaks, chirus, Tibetan gazelle, pika, and marmot. When you go into the depths of the Chang Tang, you could hardly be surpised by the sudden appearance of the chirus because they are so common in here. At this time of year, the chirus have already male-female parted. You could see many pregnant female chirus but hardly see any males. According to recent research, Zonag Co is not the only lake for breeding. There are at least four of them in the whole Chang Tang. Zonag Co, Tuzi Hu, Heishi Beihu, and another lake I can not remember. I think there must be more than four of them and most of the populations do not migrant long way like most people used to think. They generally migrant from south to north between Central Mountains and Kunlun Mountains.The chirus looks very timid but are very curious about outside world. They are not really afraid of people, particularly in the depth of the Chang Tang. The nearest distance we can approach is about 30m. They just stare at you calmly and think who you are and why you move so slow. They would run in front of you. Look like they are afraid of you but the fact is they are playing with you. A man's own character shapes his fortune. This is of course suit for animals too. The chirus are the typical one. They have a super speed and a pair of sharp antlers. If they are crazy, three of them work together could easily kill a wolf. But as you might have known, their antlers are just for fighting to mate with females.Down the Daban there was a very steep and straight road, I tried to ride the bicycle but ended up with falling over. The front rack came loose and one of the pannier flew into valley. The foot of the mountain was the Yueya Hu covered by ice, which was alake full of heavy metal elements. Along the lake bank there were many stark rocks very much weathered, lining up just like castles or houses. This made me stop to investigate what they were from time to time, I did understand they were just rocks though but they were so real like the figures of real people. On of them even made me hide in a ditch, observing them again and again using my binoculars. There were also many black volcanic rocks. All in all, the features of this area were really unusual.Passed over the Yueya Hu, it was an endless ancient lake bed. What my GPS showed was this area was a big lake like tentacles. I looked around, it was endless wilderness without a piece of ice and a drop of water. Roughly, I estimated this lake bed was about 1200 square meters. I had to tell you that Chang Tang was a place where there was no high-resolution map. The marks in the map often were some kind of memory. Just like this ancient lake bed under my feet, may be it was full of water a few years ago. Who knows. Pushing the bike in such an endless lake bed was very easy to get lost. My mind was in a chaotic status too.The migration of the animals, photo taken last year The road rising up to the Daban, full of gravels, very hard, ideal for pushing your bikeThe Yueya Hu gazed at by the round and smooth Toze Gangri. At a glimpse, could you tell which was mountain, which was cloud?Ancient lake bed. The white stains were the alkali, look like ice. About wildlife (part 1)Declaration Personal experience for reference onlyDangerous wild animals and their threats to human beings are a ever-LASTING subject for those backpackers travelling in the wild.In Chang Tang, for example, there are two kinds of deadly animals, one is wolves and the other is brawn bears. As substitutes, wild yaks and crows might be dangerous to you in some circumstances that I will come back to this a little bit later on. As for how to protect yourself against these dangerous animals, I think the primary point is you do not try to hurt them because the emotions of human and animals are same instinctively. [Wolves]Throughout my journey, I met wolves a total of seven times, in which I confronted them five times. As you might have known that wolves have become more and more solitary animals, it is very rare they live in a large group nowadays. Please allow me off the point a little bit and talk about the ecological problems in Chang Tang. The problem is now not the decrease of the number of the chirus but the imbalance of the whole food chain, more specifically, the number of the animals on the higher trophic levels of the food chain has not yet reached its ideal level which results in this kind of imbalance. Particularly, the pikas and the marmots who have lost their predators rapidly expanse which results in the desertification of Chang Tang. As early as the middle of last century, wolves were the dominant predators in the vast wilderness. They became a threat not only to other preys but also nomads pasturing in this land. Therefore, the then government called on people to cull back the population of the wolves in Chang Tang, which resulted in the current situation directly. The last official record about wolves attacking humans was around 1970s, which happened in Bamaoqiongzong. A team of secientists was surrounded by a group of wolves and they had to shoot them using guns. Of course, at present in Chang Tang, wolves are absolutely lonely.In this traverse, the first time I encountered a pair of wolves, one of them staying in front of me pretending to attack me while the other staying behind me. This is the standard attacking strategy of wolves. First, you should not be nervous which can be easily detected by the predators. Second, you should not retreat even an inch because this means you are the prey rather than the predator. Do not make any large movement, of course you could take a picture if you feel safe to do so. You must look into its eyes for a few minutes or even half an hour. When the wolves can not work out who you are and consider you are not posing any danger to them, then they will leave. You should remember that wolves in this land do not lack of food and it is much easy for them to catch a pika than a human. Even if being hungry, they would evaluate how easy to get you done, What you need to do is to show them that you are not interested in them and you are not afraid of them at all, let alone to show your ID card to them. As for the wolves family, really, I have not heard for ages. If you really have an encounter with them and they have no other choice, then it definitely depends on your forture. In fact, for so many year, it has been very rare to happen that wolves kill human. But the rumours are still there, in particular, the road connecting Xinjiang and Tibet.The nearest encounter with a wolf throughout my journey, no conflict at all[Brown Bears]Brown bears are real dangerous animals to human. Every year there are some accidents happened in some regions of Xinjiang on the north side of Kunkun Mountains and steppes in Northern Tibet. More than that the bears could attack your house, smash your windows, and eat your sheep. Therefore, in Northern Tibet some local councils give subsidies to the pastorarists for compensating the losses due to the bears because they are not allow to fight back and kill the bears except their lives are in great danger. Once there was a nomad taught me a method to protect yourself from bears. He told me to pick up a stick to feed the bear and the bear thinks the stick is your hand which tastes disgusting. So the bear would leave. It was so funny but the reality is to find a stick in this vast wilderness is just like you win the lottery.Bears are omonivorous animal who are generally not interested in human flesh. You can find that in most of accidents, the bears did not eat any of the human flesh rather they just smashed them for kind of fun that we could not understand. For the reason why bears kill human, one explanation is the conflict between human and wildlife in this extreme ecological environment. The nomads invade the habitats of the bears, which results in these conflicts. On the other hand, it might be because bears have quite high IQ so that they think it is much easy to kill a sheep in the cote rather than to kill a pika in the wild.I have met bears five times in my traverse, in two cases we were very close to each other. I had even walked with one of them for quite a while, just like we had a date for a walk. The fact is it is not that terrible like you might imagine. The same rules for dealing with wolves apply to bears. Never provoke dangerous animals. A bear can run at a speed of 40km/h, do you think you can compete this in a highland 5,000m above sea level?However, there is a situation where it is really dangerous, that is the encounter. It is not easy to control your instinctive reaction to the external dangers. Last year once I turned around a hill, there was a bear just in front of me. The bear of course was frightened by me with its front legs holding up, waving in the air and roaring. At that time I sat on the ground, ignoring it. The bear then left in a few minutes. Chang Tang is a vast land so that this is not that easy to happen. But if it does happen, really only God can bless you.The nearest encounter with a bear throughout my journey. This bear disappeared in a herd of wild yaks, which I had tried hard to spot, really weird About wildlife (part 2)Declaration personal experience for reference only.[Wild Yaks]I have talked about quite a few, like in the post of Day10. I will no longer talk about it.This was the funniest encounter with a solitary wild yak, who did not warn me. If I sat down, it sat down too. If I moved forward, it stopped. Could not imagine what it was thinking about.[Crows]Crows are dangerous only when you fall unconscious in the wilderness. Of course they will be the first to taste your flesh in that case. Unlike their cousinsliving in urban areas, the crows in Chang Tang have a larger body like eagles. When they fly over your head, you could feel like it is a piece of cloud. They are scavengers but like fresh meat too. It once happened that a baby was killed by crows relentlessly, let alone the lambs got killed by them. Once a nomad asked me for fireworks to scare the crows away. (They are sacred birds not to be killed by human)It is easy to defend yourself against crows, that is to keep fighting, never fall in the wilderness.A short break attracted the crows. Of course, they were miscalculating this time, photo taken last year[Strategies Adopted]At the time when I met the four soldiers in Jieshan Daban, they said there were many dangerous animals in the Northern Tibet and asked me if I had brought a shotgun. I think if they knew that I would enter Chang Tang they would definitely check if I really have a shotgun. The so-called defence facilities I brought with me were the fireworks and pepper spray. I had never used them. The fireworks were ruined and thrown away when I crossed a river and I had never opened the pepper spray. I even had never thought about this when camping in the night. The reason was I did not feel the needs. During the day time whenever I met any animals I had never touched the knife I had brought. I did not have anything to defend myself when I walked out to investigate the route. The Chang Tang is really a vast area so as to be very easy to detect anything strange.By the way, you'd better to avoid mating season's animals because even tamed rabbits could be aggressive in mating season.The thing is even if you have a gun, it is not very much helpful when bears attack you. Therefore, your attitude is most important.I can tell you something. Dogs are more dangerous than these wild animals. I had been chased by Tibetan dogs, pounced on by dogs in mating season, also besieged by a group of dogs. I really feel it is more useful to know how to defend a dog.Declaration again The above experience is from Chang Tang only. Of course, the more you prepared, the better. Day 12 (May 1), 23.8km, Camping 5117mToday was May 1 -- the Labour Day, I had been walking in some lake area marked in the map but clearly dried up. The lake basin was flat and hard so that I even pushed my bike more than 20km. Let it be the special treat for my May Day. After midday it became cloudy with growing winds. Since the Yueya Hu that I passed yesterday, there were no big lakes until Yanghu Co (My route would be between Jianshui Hu and Bairab Co), there was even no light alkaline water to drink so I had to pay extra attention not to miss any possible drinking water supply to fill up my water bag. There were a few very small lakes but all were alkaline puddles which was very shallow, whose depth was no more than the length of a half-finger. These puddles were covered with a hard shell of the mixture of salt and ice which smelled stinking and decaying when getting closer, must be toxic water I supposed. On the shore of this type of small lakes it was muddy soil and very hard to get closer.There was no sign of tundra at all.It was almost half past six when I found some snow corns in a ditch, which was the only drinking water supply of the day. There was a thin layer of melted ice on the surface of the ground near the snow corn, which was very hard to collect and was contaminated by the alkali. The snow corn was the yet melted thick snow, which was shaped like a corn by wind. The snow was quite hard and dry,porous like ice. I crushed a few snow corns, putting them into the water bag.They would be my drinking water tonight. These snow corns were the only one in today's wilderness, I reckoned the reason why they were not melted like others was the soil underneath contained large amount of ice blocks which acted as a freezer.Very strong gale in the night, it was hard to bear the sound of the vibration of the tent. Small single tent was good in the sense that it would not be blown away as long as you stayed inside. But you had to be very careful to set up the tent. I once did not pay much attention when doing so, the tent was blown away by winds, and rolling over like a Giant lantern ... I ran after it, got it back, and was exhausted. In general, it is not possible to fix the tent completely using tent pegs because they were not very much effective like large tents. It was snowing around 23 o'clock, the winds were howling from north,then the falling snow flakes landed on my tent quietly, I finally felt at peace and fell asleep. The flat ancient lake basin, assisting me walking more than 20kmSmall lake en route, toxic waterSnow corns, the only drinking water supply today Day 13 (May 2), 0km, Camping 5117mWaking up in the morning and opening the tent, the heavy snow outside must be sent by the God to force me have a break for the May Day. After lying in for a while, getting up and walking on the snowy ground out I went to have a look around. As first sight there were a herd of chirus. They were plainly to be spotted because they looked like a clear black straight line in the while snow. I returned to get my camera and then followed them to take some pictures. But they were very much alert and kept a quite long distance from me. I felt they were a group of pregnant females, instinctively protecting themselves from any potential harm. I was no longer short of water, the snow gave me a precious supply of drinking water. The problem was that they were very petrol consuming. I tool 8.6 litre of petrol and the oil stove was Duola's MSR. The pot was of 1.5 litre, mainly for boiling water. After several days' experiments, I found that the liquid water needed 16mins and 14-15mins to boil in the morning and evening, respectively. For ice, it would take 35-40mins while for snow it took 45-50mins. Melting snow was a very time and petrol consuming process so if I had a choice between snow and light alkaline water, most of time I would go with the latter. Lying inside the tent, listening to musics,I smoked a cigarette while gazing at the more and more chirus around me. Because it was very cold I had been wearing my shoes all the time. Now I just put my bare feet under the warm sun for some fresh air. I found three cuts in my hands and one in my sole. The cuts were about 4cm in length, looked terrible but it was actually all right really. Half of my toes were injured by to much walking, quite painful. I fetched my medicine bag and found I only got four patches of plasters, a serious mistake. One of the cuts in my hand had never been cured until I was out of this desolate land so as to feel like this finger would drop from my hand at any time. The others quickly recovered in a few days then new cuts appeared elsewhere. This process occurred periodically. I felt that it was somewhat related to the cold, dry weather and the lack of vitamins. The snow rapidly disappeared, which is unique phenomenon in Chang Tang. Because of the low air humidity and the high radiation from the sun, the snow was evaporating very fast, much quicker than the melting speed. Owing to this, the ground was generally still dry after the snow disappeared. In most cases, it would be only 2/5 left in the afternoon around 2 to 3 o'clock and small patches of ground could be seen. It would be completely all right for walking the next day. On the third day there could be some snow left in somewhere the sunlight hard to reach. So generally it could give you three days of water supply after a heavy snow like this. One of the pannier was broken, the most expensive one from deuter series, supposed to be waterproof. I will come back to it at some point later. Everything was covered by snow, no way out Lying in the middle of Chang Tang, listening to Tian Zhen's songs, and smoking Baisha cigarettes, what else can you ask for? The pregnant female chirus in migration, probably heading to Heishi Beihu to give birth([]

绿巨人黄色破解版无限观频

张智均

徒步西藏“四大名沟”，看五座8000米雪山，看你还能不能Hold住？在世界屋脊西藏，耸立着雄伟的喜马拉雅，其中有五座8000米以上的雪山座落在日喀则境内，它们是珠穆朗玛（第一）、洛子峰（第四）、马卡鲁（第五）、卓奥友（第六）和希夏邦玛（第十四）。喜马拉雅雪山脉在日喀则境内被砍了四个缺口，它们形成了日喀则“四大名沟”：吉隆沟、樟木沟、嘎玛沟和亚东沟。这四条沟的共同特点是：发源于雪山，海拔从5000米一路下降到3000米，经低处流到国外。独特的地貌造就了奇特的风光：雪山相伴，景色多变，人迹罕至，恍若世外桃源。今年国庆假期，我们一行16人，深入“四大名沟”徒步，与五座8000米雪山亲密接触，欣赏旷世美景，体验别样人生。感谢老天爷给我们好天气，感谢朝夕相伴同甘共苦的队友，感谢给我们帮助的司机、向导、牦牛工，让我们这次漫长的旅程变得如此顺利和圆满。这里，要向大家特别推荐希夏邦玛南坡大本营徒步和珠峰东坡大本营徒步，这是目前国内最好的徒步线路。遗憾的是沿途遇到的大多是外国人，国内驴友还较少知道。这个帖子注定是一个长篇，请大家耐心等待。我们将用最详细的第一手资料：文字、图片、视频、GPS轨迹、攻略，揭开“四大名沟”的神秘面纱。时间：2011年9月23日——10月16日线路：深圳——拉萨——老定日——吉隆沟——聂拉木——希夏邦玛南坡大本营徒步——聂拉木——珠峰大本营——曲当乡——晓乌错——卓湘营地（兰花谷）——汤湘营地——俄嘎——珠峰东坡大本营——俄嘎——措学仁玛——曲当乡——定结——岗巴——多庆措——亚东——江孜——拉萨——深圳。参加人员：行摄匆匆、阿韦、相守、游民、蓝桥，有足道、小白、飞繁、老虎，小麦子、小玉、大玉、夭夭、鑫子、小瓦片、小迷糊。相机：D700+24——70。费用：6000元左右（不包括来回拉萨机票）活动约伴帖：无法抵挡的诱惑——2011年“十一”西藏“四大名沟”徒步约伴https//www.doyouhike.net/group/20158/1/510200,0,0,0.html活动讨论帖：2011年“十一”西藏“四大名沟”徒步计划书https//www.doyouhike.net/group/20158/1/532199,0,0,0.html星子作业：听，喜马拉雅的呼吸---2011西藏四大名沟徒步(希夏邦马&珠峰东坡）https//www.doyouhike.net/forum/photo/544588,0,0,1.html小麦子作业：小面条走天涯—西夏邦马、珠峰东坡徒步记https//www.doyouhike.net/forum/backpacking/544977,0,0,0.html小瓦片作业：We Made It——行摄匆匆队2011金秋西藏“四大名沟”游记By瓦片https//www.doyouhike.net/forum/mountain/544087,0,0,1.html#post21回复深圳行摄匆匆的帖子揭开“四大名沟”的神秘面纱一、为什么要去“四大名沟”？因为山在那里，因为那里有绝美的风景，因为那里人迹罕至。 “四大名沟”只是一个概念，这里只是借用一下，具体怎么走，一切由风景决定。吉隆沟的风景集中在吉隆镇一带，有时间的话建议徒步去看看山上的几个村庄，有走进世外桃源的感觉。当然姆拉错是一定要去的，那里是等待日出和拍雪山倒影的最佳位置。樟木沟的重点是上段的希夏邦玛南坡大本营徒步，其实我们压根儿就没去樟木。希夏邦玛南坡大本营是一条风景优美、难度适中的徒步线路，来回3天，与雪山近距离接触，能带给你意外的惊喜。嘎玛沟被认为是世界上最美的山谷，因为它的上段有三座8000米以上的雪山：珠穆朗玛、洛子峰和马卡鲁。这里有多条徒步线路可供选择，最值得一走的是珠峰东坡大本营徒步，来回7天，风景绝美，有一定挑战性。亚东沟的重点是多庆措和卓木拉日，湖光山色，交相辉映。当然，去下有西藏小香港之称的亚东县城也是不错的。那里有中印乃堆山边贸通道，还有康布温泉。二、为什么要一次走完“四大名沟”？这个是由效率决定的。去一次西藏不容易，而这“四大名沟”都在日喀则境内，相距不远，一次走完性价比高。还有一个重要的原因，那就是循序渐进。很多人去珠峰东坡徒步，第一天就高反了，导致很难按计划完成全程。但我们的队员到珠峰东坡的时候个个活蹦乱跳，这是为什么呢？因为我们先去吉隆沟（2850米），再去希夏邦玛南坡大本营徒步（3750米——5130米），到达曲当乡的时候已经不知道高原反应为何物了。走完珠峰东坡可以原路经日喀则返回拉萨，但那样的话将会非常无趣。我们选择定结——岗巴——亚东——江孜——拉萨，一来可以看见不同的风景，二来可以作为高强度徒步活动之后的放松。三、线路的难度和或有风险希夏邦玛南坡大本营徒步来回3天时间，最困难的是第二天，海拔高、时间长，要有心理准备。最好早点出发，来回预计9小时。珠峰东坡大本营徒步来回7天时间，每天徒步5—8小时，比较危险的是巴当到俄嘎的一段碎石坡横切；强度最大的一天是俄嘎到珠峰东坡大本营，来回9小时，徒步24公里；而最不确定的是朗玛拉垭口穿越，如果大雪封山，穿越将异常困难。沿途还是有很多岔路的，建议请当地向导或牦牛工带路，如果是自己徒步，至少有GPS数据参考。四、对身体条件的要求很多人想去高原徒步但担心自己的身体，当然最担心的还是高原反应。其实，没有大家想象的那么难，只要你平时坚持运动，出发前进行适当的拉练，一般人都是可以完成的。我们这次有16人参加，大部分人都不是猛驴，甚至有些是临时抱佛脚，像南京的小迷糊。我们队员的年龄在30——50岁，但我们照样顺利走完全程，主要经验是循序渐进，把状态调整到最好。一般拉练到轻松爬完梧桐山，腿脚不痛就可以了。五、带什么装备? 高原天气多变，早晚寒冷，中午炎热，衣服要多带，冷了加，热了脱。最低温度—10度左右，要求带快干衣、抓绒、冲锋衣、羽绒服、羊毛袜、毛线帽、厚手套、雪套、雨衣，—10度睡袋等。此外还要注意防晒，如果不注意，一天就可以把你晒伤！一般出发的时候穿抓绒和冲锋衣，走一会就要脱掉一件，中午可能只穿一件快干就可以了。但最怕的就是风寒效应，一旦变天，刮风下雪，气温陡降，很容易造成失温的。六、山上吃什么？总是原则是：有能量、合口味、易煮熟、少垃圾。一是营养搭配；二是数量控制；三是小组互补。主要食品有快餐面、快餐粉、挂面，燕麦片、奶茶、豆腐花、紫菜蛋花汤、浓汤宝，各种咸菜，饼干、面包，火腿肠、午餐肉、鸡腿鸡翅，奶糖、巧克力，各种水果，特别推荐红萝卜、白萝卜、大白菜，好放，不容易撞坏。其它个人喜爱食品。建议4—6人一个小组一起做饭比较有趣。七、边防通行证如何办理？四大名沟都属于边境地区，都要办理边防通行证，最严的可能是曲当乡。但这次好像查得不严，我们去曲当乡卡达边防派出所登记的时候值班的人还在睡觉，叫了几次都不起床，最后还是一个四川帅哥帮忙登记的。去“四大名沟”要写上吉隆县、樟木、珠峰、亚东，最好写上曲当乡或卡达，避免不必要的麻烦。一般可以在当地公安局或派出所办理，如果当地不能办理，也可以找拉萨的旅行社代办，一张100元。八、费用如何控制？去西藏旅游，最主要的费用就是车费。现在很多人迷信越野车，不管是到哪里都要包越野车，其实大可不必。因为现在西藏很多旅游景点的道路都修得很好了，一般的小车、面包车都可以到达，比如我们这次要到达的吉隆沟和曲当乡，算是非常偏僻的地方了，但我们的两辆10座金杯面包车都可以安全到达。省下的车费就可以拿来大吃大喝了。九、向导和牦牛如何联系？如果你不是特别的喜欢自虐又有特别强的野外生存能力，建议你还是雇向导和牦牛好了，这样自己就有足够的精力来欣赏沿途风景、享受徒步的快乐，而不是一味的暴走。希夏邦玛大本营徒步的起点在聂拉木县城，而珠峰东坡徒步的起点在定日县曲当乡，到当地就可以联系到向导和牦牛了，一般是由村长或乡政府统一调配的。十、推荐几个常用电话1、拉萨包车：平措，老司机，技术一流，善于跟当地藏民打交道，可以算得上西藏通了，11座金杯车，车号：藏AL1052,联系电话：13989099861；米玛，平措师傅的搭档，有文化，非常幽默，特别喜欢开玩笑，11座金杯面包车，电话：13518982207.住宿：风马飞扬：0891——6790250，13908915478，QQ：55387134，老板：阿芳、阿辉。亚宾馆附近，离大昭寺和布达拉宫都不远。最好的地方是晚上12点关门熄灯，可以安心睡觉。气罐：我们的气罐是在荒野户外店买的，25元一瓶，没用完的可以退给他们。地址在亚宾馆和大昭寺之间，电话：0891——6792423，13908908910。腐败：太阳岛重庆正宗邮亭鲫鱼，喜欢吃辣椒的可以去尝尝，电话：0891——6714285；太阳岛彭彭牛杂羊杂火锅，18989986050。这个不辣，不介意吃动物内脏的可以去试试。2、吉隆恒安宾馆，算是吉隆镇最大的宾馆之一，间80元，可以洗澡。老板：蒋佩伸，儒雅商人，喜欢摄影，已经知道在哪里拍倒影了。电话：0892——8928323，18908926368.3、聂拉木神山宾馆，40元一个床位，附近有淋浴的地方，10元1人。老板是回民，特别爱干净，热情到你受不了，可以帮忙联系村长，商谈去希夏邦玛牦牛的事情。联系电话：郑建文：0892——8272488，13989028182。村长（什么村不记得了）：西热：13989922862。我们这次的牦牛就是他负责安排的。注意把要去的地方和牦牛的价钱先谈好。之前我们联系的是多布吉，我们是在网上看到他电话的，他是当地的高山协作，但找牦牛还是要通过村长。多布吉电话：13638920177。4、曲当乡牦牛都是由乡政府统一安排，分管副书记小普：13518929783。边防证由定日县卡达边防派出所管理。我们去的时候值班的人不在，是一个四川兵哥哥帮忙登记的，他叫王川，最好不要随便去打扰他哦。曲当乡住在珠峰宾馆，40元一个床位，老板叫达瓦：13549026865，18798922896。对面有一家成都餐馆，味道不错。牦牛由乡政府统一安排，但向导要自己找。绝大部分牦牛工不懂汉语，沟通起来非常困难。这里推荐三个向导：罗布桑布，13658924597，非常靠谱的向导，带路节凑控制得很好，线路非常熟悉，为人诚实可靠，缺点是只懂几句简单汉语。边巴，18708024910，初中文化，交流无障碍，但有点滑头，比较懒散。需要经常敲打，做翻译很好。扎西，18708092653，现在西藏大学读书，平时不能带队，但交际能力强，他哥哥是个不错的牦牛工，可以帮忙联系曲当乡的向导、牦牛工和进出卡车等。这三个向导应该都是朋友或亲戚关系。找到其中一位就可以找到其它两位，重点推荐罗布桑布，被我们队员广泛认可。如果不想包车去曲当乡，可以先坐车到定日县，再坐卡车到曲当乡，每人200元，可让当地向导帮忙联系。据说这样可以逃掉去珠峰的门票。行前准备，可参考我们的讨论帖：2011年“十一”西藏“四大名沟”徒步计划书https//www.doyouhike.net/group/20158/1/532199,0,0,1.html#post17 我们的五星级营地：珠峰东坡晓乌错营地希夏邦玛南坡营地亚东多庆措营地嘎玛沟汤湘观景台，同时看见三座8000米雪山：马卡鲁、洛子峰、珠峰。珠峰北坡大本营。希夏邦玛南坡营地：我们最喜欢的倒影：吉隆沟晓乌错多庆措全家福：我们走在喜马拉雅：云端漫步：美丽的晓乌错，第一次看见远处的马卡鲁。嘎玛沟，被认为只世界上最美的山谷，因为有三座8000米雪山在它的上段，它们就是珠穆朗玛（第一）、洛子峰（第四）和马卡鲁（第五）。马叉无处不在躺在帐篷中就可以看见雪山：通往珠峰东坡大本营的路：多庆措和卓木拉日：一、吉隆沟，在郁闷中开始，在完美中收官如今的西藏，大概已经没有了空白。包括神秘的墨脱、古格以及藏北无人区，都已经变得不再那么神秘。唯独吉隆，似乎还鲜为人知。　　吉隆，或许就是西藏最后的秘境。吉隆，藏语“舒适村”、“欢乐村”之意。吉隆之得名，传说是公元8世纪后期，赤松德赞从印度迎请莲花生大师入藏时，大师一行途经吉隆沟（今吉隆镇一带），曾在此住了一宿。大师见此地山清水秀，风景明媚，不胜感概，又见溪谷中的河水洁白如乳，溪底的卵石光润如玉，更是赞叹不已。于是，在翌日临行之前，欣然命名此地为“吉隆”，以表达其无限赞誉之情，“吉隆”之称谓遂流传至今。吉隆位于珠峰自然保护区的最西端，由于横贯东西的喜马拉雅山脉阻挡了印度洋暖湿气流的北进，使得山脊两侧的气候截然不同，呈现出南北两大气候类型。东北部有8012米的希夏邦玛峰和著名的佩枯湖，南部则分布有原始森林。吉隆藏布江顺着蜿蜒的山谷向南飞泻，两侧山峰林立，气势巍峨，层峦叠翠的山谷里生长着种类繁多的森林植物，一些稀有树种如长叶松、长叶云杉、红豆杉等也随处可见，山顶则是终年积雪，气度不凡，所谓“一山有四季，十里不同天”便是这儿真实的写照。去吉隆沟的过程并不顺利，可谓一波三折，柳暗花明。前三天的天气都不好，从拉萨到吉隆沟，我们要翻过三个海拔5000多米的垭口，好几名队员都出现了不同程度的高原反应。而我们期待的风景却迟迟没有出现，三座8000米的雪山都藏而不见。吉隆沟徒步的那一天更是阴雨朦胧，连雪山的影子都没见着，我甚至怀疑之前的信息出了问。这次去吉隆沟与一张雪山倒影的照片有关，红草地、大石头、两座雪山在静静的湖水中映出清晰的倒影，仿佛世外桃源一般。在吉隆镇的大街上，我问过很多人，但没有一个人能告诉我在哪里可以看到雪山的倒影，真让我这个倒影控抓狂。但我们并没有放弃，在雨中坚持徒步上山，因为宾馆的老板告诉我们山上有两个美丽的村庄，还可以看见一排的雪山。为了躲雨，我们冒失地闯进了山上的一户藏民家，没想到刚好是村长家。在那里，我们度过两个小时的欢乐时光。虽然语言不通，我们与藏民一家相处融洽，因为双方都充满着好奇，我们都感觉对方似乎是来自另一个世界。下山的时候无意间发现了那个拍摄雪山倒影的地方，真是踏遍铁鞋无觅处，得来全不费功夫，别提我们有多高兴了。就在我们即将离开吉隆沟的那一天，雨过天晴，柳暗花明，美景如期而至。我们看到了最美的吉隆沟，四周的雪山依次打开，我们等来了日照金山，我们如愿以偿地拍到雪山的倒影。在回程的路上，我们还看见了雄伟的希夏邦玛和美丽的佩枯错。吉隆沟，就这样在郁闷中开始，在完美中收官。 D1：9月23日，深圳——重庆——拉萨1、背着40公斤行李出门早上四点多一点就醒了，也不敢再睡，怕睡过头了。一边看电视一边等天亮。昨天晚上打包很辛苦，搞到23：30，这次要带的东西实在是太多了，最后的结果是：85升大包22公斤，摄影包（包括上网本）12公斤，一个装食品的手提袋6公斤，一共40公斤。还要帮大玉带一个摄影包到机场。615在楼下与游民会合，645到达机场，小麦子和星子已经先到了。本想着她们女孩子东西少，一起托运可以占点便宜，没想到她们的大包都是19公斤多，据说她们没有在家称过，全凭感觉，真厉害！我只好赶紧为大包减负，拿出三脚架和几块电池，和游民一起托运，两个人40.02公斤，每个人都是20公斤左右，已经精确到小数点后两位数了，都是给航空公司逼的。为了检验这次徒步的减肥效果，特地把自己也称了下，78公斤，希望回来之后能在73公斤之下，哈哈，旅行和减肥，一举两得。2、一大堆电池蒙混过关过安检的时候很担心电池的问。因为前段深圳大运期间，机场查得很严，好像每个人只能带两块电池登机，而且电池是不能托运的。我这次带的电池实在太多：D700相机5块，摄像机2块，对讲机2块，还有为GPS准备的移动电源（相当于一块大的锂电池）。我把这些电池分放在我的摄影包、手提袋和摄影背心口袋中，以防万一。还好，这次安检对电池查得不严，让我把20公斤的装备轻松背上了飞机。8点登机，830起飞，1030就到重庆了。实在是有点困，一上飞机就睡着了。我们这次算是联程机票，虽然要在重庆换机，但都是南航的，只需在深圳办理一次行李托运就OK了，在重庆也不用出候机楼，1230又开始登机，1500就到拉萨贡嘎机场了。3、又见雪山飞机快到拉萨的时候，机舱内的人群就开始沸腾，我知道，可以看见雪山了。虽然是第五次来西藏，但看到雪山，依然有些兴奋，也拿出相机拍了几张。4、风马飞扬客栈集结机场大巴25元坐到终点（布达拉宫附近），再打的15元到亚宾馆，我们住的风马飞扬客栈就在附近，但的士开不进去，而我们三人的东西都很多，就打电话给先到的有足道，让他叫几个队员来帮忙拿一下。最后只有有足道和客栈的一个小伙子来了。后来才知道，有好几个人都有轻微的高反，在客栈睡觉，有足道也打了三天的吊针，真不好意思，给有足道添麻烦了。到了客栈，先了解下队员的状况，到各个房间串门，接下来就是联系我们的包车司机平措师傅和我们珠峰东坡徒步的向导扎西，约好晚上七点一起吃饭，讨论这次旅行的细节问。可以说，他们都是我们这次旅行的关键人物。平措和米玛，各开一辆全顺面包车，要跟我们16人21天，我们徒步的时候，他们也在原地等待，这样就没有后顾之忧了。国庆节期间的包车还是很紧张的。而扎西则是我们这次活动的重头戏珠峰东坡徒步的向导，直接关系到这次徒步的成功与否。我们边吃边聊，气氛不错，他们都是很好相处之人，先前的一些担忧大多得到解决。最担心的是一辆全顺面包车能否坐下8个人，因为我们的行李实在是太多了。看到车子之后，这个顾虑基本没了，因为两辆车都在车顶安装了行李架，而车子里面还多出两个空位。5、山上吃什么是个大问吃完饭去逛超市，主要想补充点吃的，一看价吓我一跳，手撕牦牛肉118元一斤，真***贵！好在水果还算便宜，6个小苹果5—12元不等，那就多吃水果少吃肉吧。回到客栈，开始重新打包，把暂时不用的放进大包，把可能用到的东西放在外面方便提取的地方。看到老虎在收拾行李，床上堆满吃的东西，看上去有点恐怖。为洗不洗澡纠结了很久，最后还是决定不洗。一是刚到高原，不能太折腾；二是今天搬运行李消耗不少体力了；三是洗澡容易着凉引发感冒。大约23点，疲惫的队员们逐渐入睡，而我则是最后一个入睡的人。费用明细：早上打的去机场60元；拉萨机场大巴25元；打的去客栈5元（三人15元）；晚餐33元；超市购物200元；住宿50元（7人间）合计373元。D2：9月24日，拉萨——日喀则——拉孜——老定日6、拉萨出发早上四点不到就醒了，尿急、鼻塞。在空气稀薄的拉萨鼻子不通气是很难受的，赶紧下一楼的洗手间去清理鼻子，因为住的七人间，在房间弄怕影响队友休息。回到房间，赶紧吃感冒药和鼻炎通窍片。躺在床上怎么也睡不着，干脆想一想还有什么东西遗漏的，因为明天离开拉萨后买东西就更不方便的。发现真的少了一些东西：唇膏和开瑞坦（治疗过敏性鼻炎的药），还有卷纸，这些都是我每天都要用到的。智者千虑必有一失，没想到我带了80多斤的装备，还是把它们漏掉了。熬到5点，我实在是无聊，就打开笔记本发微博，还在新浪博客上写了一篇博客。6点钟，大家陆续起床了，其实很多人跟我一样没有睡好，只是没有像我这样折腾而已。洗漱、装开水、打包。7点钟，车子已经开到亚宾馆了。我们搬运完行李就在附近的口味香川菜馆早餐，这里的早餐还不错，有稀饭、包子、豆浆、油条等，前一天晚上我已经跟老板打过招呼了。把这么多行李装上车既是力气活也是技术活，最后的结果让大家都很满意，8个人坐在车里面还比较宽敞。7：40离开亚宾馆，我们的西藏“四大名沟”徒步正式开始，出发前拍了一段视频，为队员们将来出境做准备，几名新队员明显有一些兴奋了。拉萨到日喀则限速60公里/小时。我们走走停停，反正今天不赶路，主要是适应高原，晚上能到达老定日就OK了。沿途有很多水果店，我们一路买一路吃。给每个司机一条云烟，一听红牛，这个是必需的。毕竟，要想玩得开心，司机是很重要的。13：30到达日喀则，从现在开始，点菜的任务就交给我们非常称职的生活部长蓝桥了。中午的川菜很丰盛，口味不重，大家都能接受。1415，我们离开日喀则。7、有人高反了1600到达海拔4500米的措拉垭口，1740到达海拔5150米的嘉措拉垭口，这里算是珠峰大门了吧，上面写着珠峰自然保护区欢迎你。天气不好，风很大，看不到远处的雪山，我们匆匆离开。下垭口不久，前面的车子突然停下来，担心车子出了故障，赶紧前去打探究竟，原来是阿韦高反吐了。吐了就好，不然憋着更难受。不一会，我们车上的大玉也吐了。阿韦和大玉都是多次参加高原徒步的老驴了，但依然会有高反，这很正常，这也是我们为什么第一站选择海拔2800米的吉隆沟的原因了，让队员有足够的时间来适应高原。1900到达白坝村，新定日县城就在右手边不远，但我们继续朝着樟木的方向直走。1920经过这次旅行的第一个检查站——定日县鲁鲁边防检查站。有点担心几名队员的边防证过不了关，还好一切顺利。8、老定日凑合一夜2010，我们终于到达今天的目的地——老定日（岗嘎镇），此时太阳刚刚下山。这里的海拔4340米。平措师傅带我们到他熟悉的拉萨饭店，藏民开的，条件很差，两人间开价80元，被我还到70元，再免掉司机住宿费。说是两人间，其实很小，就能放两张床，没有洗手间。因为天色已晚，又是司机带去的，就勉强接受吧，反正睡几个小时就走。司机想让我们吃拉萨饭店的藏餐，这个我们没有答应，毕竟我们都不是藏民，大部分人还是吃不习惯的，吃不好，后面的徒步就没有体力。跟司机的关系要掌握一个平衡点，小的事情可以迁就一下他们，但大的原则性问就要坚持己见了。我们找到附近一家川菜馆吃饭，在西藏，80%以上都是川菜馆，如果你不适应，那是比较麻烦的。点菜的时候，我特地叮嘱蓝桥，尽量清淡点，搞几个没有辣椒的菜，照顾一下几名不吃辣椒的队员。星子带了一个血氧浓度测量计，虽然不是很准确，但还是能大概测出每个人当时的心跳频率和血氧浓度的。从此，这个小仪器就成了我们每天吃饭时的娱乐项目了。队员们都拿这些指来炫耀自己的身体有多好，一般情况，心跳100以下，血氧浓度80以上，身体状况就是比较好的了。小白不知道从哪里听说在高原喝酥油茶可以抗高反，就花10元钱买了房东藏民家一壶酥油茶，见人就推销。我刚喝一口就发现不对，怎么有一个硬硬的东西在嘴里，吐出来一看，是一个白色的小块。小白忽悠我是没有融化的奶酪，后来发现是碗的碎片，真倒霉，哪有这么巧的，一口喝下去，就刚好喝到碗的缺口了！最大的遗憾是这里没有联通的3G信号，无法上网，枉我千里迢迢把笔记本带到这里，回去要投诉联通了，让俺买了个摆设。既然如此，那就收拾好行李，早点睡吧。今天的天气不怎么好，没有什么特别吸引人的风景，我的相机始终没有拿出来过。D3：9月25日，老定日（岗嘎镇）——希夏邦玛——吉隆县——吉隆镇9、微博控们在行动又是四点不到就醒了，感觉比昨天晚上稍好点，鼻子至少还是通气的。但头有点微痛，还咳嗽，这些都是轻微高反的症状，估计白天就会好的。赶紧把窗户打开，让外面的空气多一点流进来。上不上厕所纠结了一会，实在憋不到天亮，还是早一点解决的好。上面加了一件抓绒，下面加了一件秋裤，把毛线帽子也戴上了。好在厕所就在附近，没有想象的那么冷，看到满天的星星，开始期待今天的珠峰、卓奥友和希夏邦玛了。衣服都穿好了，又没有睡意，但是上不了网，找点什么事情做呢？灵机一动，既然带了电脑，何不用电脑写日记呢？这个想法让我又开始兴奋。好在今天一个人住，不会影响他人，说写就写，那就从今天开始吧，有时间再把前面的补上。7点早餐，天还没亮，西藏的时差比深圳要晚两小时，但队员们基本都到了。早餐是昨天就提前预定好的，每人10元，有稀饭、馒头、包子、咸菜和鸡蛋。昨天晚上，有很多人跟我一样没有睡好，有不同程度的高反症状。此时，那个血氧浓度测量计又成为最受欢迎的东西了。微博控们在抓紧一切时间发微博，游民则扮演狗仔队的角色：810离开老定日，期待传说中的三座8000米雪山同时出现，可惜云层太厚，一个也没有看见。但早上的光线还是偶尔透过云层把某个地方照亮。10、希夏邦玛留下买路钱9点，看到路边一个老外的营地，原来是一群来自荷兰的自行车爱好者，他们已经花了9天时间从拉萨骑到这里，还要继续骑往尼泊尔，真佩服他们。队伍中几个英语好的年轻人小瓦片、老虎、小白不忘前去卖弄一番，问一问你们从哪里来又要到哪里去的。950到达希夏邦玛售票处，这里是去阿里的必经之路，不管你是否旅游，都要每人购买65元的门票，有点过分。与其理论，卖票的说是当地政府规定，美其名曰草原保护费。如果要进入希夏邦玛大本营，还要每人交300元，每辆车300元。司机出面谈判，最后以9人买票成交，队员中三人有假的导游证，等于少买了4张，勉强可以接受吧。进入希夏邦玛风景区，开始看见一些雪山了，但都是它的卫峰，希夏邦玛始终躲在云层之中。很快看见美丽的佩枯错了，这时正好有一群羊从旁边经过，赶紧让师傅停车，开始我们的马叉时光。11、佩枯错上演公路大片喜欢马叉的队员们已经憋很久了，终于有了这个马叉的机会，怎能轻易的放过，赶紧拍起了她们擅长的公路大片。变换不同姿势和组合，折腾了半个小时还不想走，最后是我多次催促才依依不舍的

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吴彦儒

〖前言〗2013年8月7日上午，肯尼亚首都内罗毕乔默-肯雅塔国际机场爆发大火，烧毁国际到达大厅，机场关闭。听闻这个消息时，我们正在从安博塞利返回内罗比的路上。“既然机场关闭，我们是不是可以晚回几天？正好可以再去一次马赛马拉！”得知这条坏消息，我们的第一反应不是叹气，反倒有点幸灾乐祸。我们在马赛马拉只呆了三天，三天的时间，对于辽阔无边的马赛马拉草原来说哪里足够，只觉意犹未尽，诸多遗憾。8月8日，按原计划下午我们就将搭乘阿联酋航空返国。但一大早便得知消息，国际机场当天依旧关闭。清静和飞翔开始与旅行社及保险公司联系，75忙着联系更便宜的酒店，因为十有八九我们这天是无法离开了。走不了，但也去不了马赛马拉，因为正值马赛马拉的旺季，如果没有提前几个月预订住宿，根本是一房难求。午饭后，我们兵分两路：大部队去机场确认航班消息，我和蟋蟀头及75去希尔顿酒店预订当晚的住宿。因美亚保险认为机场火灾不在我们的保险范围之内，保险公司拒不承担我们滞留的任何费用，所以我们得找便宜一点的住宿。对于我们这类出行常住青旅或家庭旅馆的驴友来说，希尔顿这样的五星级酒店向来不在考虑之内。但，这是在内罗毕，我们必须为自己选择一个安全的酒店。而安全，往往则意味着昂贵。在希尔顿订好住宿后，我们三人赶到机场与大部队汇合。机场区的空气里依旧弥漫着一股浓烈的焦味，国际航班抵达区的建筑被浓烟熏黑，且部分坍塌。此情此景，惨不忍睹。对于我们这些滞留的客人将如何处置，机场与阿联酋航空没有任何表态。我们一无所获地离开机场，回到希尔顿。200美元/晚的住宿费，除了安全，我们并没得到更多。房间又小又旧，似乎连如家也不如，晚餐的费用又高得离谱，大家再也没有玩的心情，只一门心思想着回去。8月9日，一大早check out后赶到机场，机场早已是人潮汹涌，混乱不堪。我们挤在一个小通道处，在长不到十米的通道排了两三个小时，才总算安检完进入check-in大厅。原以为进去后便诸事大吉，谁知那只是等待的开始。check-in大厅里早已挤得人满为患，但离开的人少，进来的人却在源源不断地增加。在阿联酋团队check-in的柜台前又排队两小时后，方得知阿联酋当天并没增加一个航班，这意味着7号8号未离开的旅客将继续滞留。满怀希望的人群一片哗然，开始躁动不安。阿联酋航空的工作人员站在柜台上讲话，让非当天机票的乘客离开，“NO！NO！”滞留的旅客，而且大多是中国游客，喊着统一的口号，表示抗议。这样的劝退与躁动发生几个回合后，驻内罗毕的中国大使馆人员赶到，人群爆发出一阵掌声，集体喊着“我们要回家！我们要回家！”这样的场面我从未经历，有点震惊，也有点感动。大使馆参赞与各团队的领队交流后，又与阿联酋的工作人员沟通。但那晚，我们的等待并没有一个好的结束。八月的内罗毕，晚上凉风习习。机场上已搭了两天的帐篷，依然还在搭建中，黑人兄弟的工作效率，实在不能令人恭维。我们一群人站在机场的一块空地上，讨论我们的何去何从。讨论没有结果，唯一确定的是，先回酒店休息。在机场耗了一整天，大家都累了，身心俱疲。所幸的是，8月10日一大早，阿联酋航空便来电，要我们赶紧去机场。这一天，机场的秩序明显比前一天好很多，我们顺利地办完值机、通关、安检，直至坐到帐篷搭成的临时候机大厅时，心里才安定许多。心安之余，回想肯尼亚的这十多天旅程，只觉内心五味杂陈。原以为可以在肯尼亚无污染的大草原上畅快呼吸，享受天然氧吧，谁知灰尘铺天盖地，大家都用口罩或头巾捂着脸，每天回到房间都是蓬头垢面。原以为可以在内罗毕穿街走巷，享受逛街乐趣，谁知内罗毕安全堪忧，因抢劫时常发生，我们所停留的地方，除了餐厅，就是酒店。原以为只要在对的时节到了马赛马拉，每天都可以欣赏到角马过河的壮观场景，谁知这其实非常靠运气。但不得不承认，近距离看动物是多么美好的一件事。优雅的长颈鹿、温顺的斑马、性感的猎豹、稳重的大象、猥琐的鬣狗、霸气十足的狮子。。。当曾在动物园里才能看到的动物，忽然在我周围自由行走、奔跑，那感觉真是无以伦比的美妙。特别是当狮子情侣含情脉脉地对望时，那一刻，我的心瞬间被打动，化得如水一般温柔。当然，更多的故事，更多的细节，还是请与我一起，走进肯尼亚。 D1（7-29）上海——迪拜——内罗毕4点钟，天未亮，整个城市还在沉睡中，我俩便拎着行李从家里出发了，去浦东机场与朋友们汇合。我们将搭乘715的航班，经迪拜转机前往肯尼亚的首都内罗毕。在这之前，我只睡了3个小时。待飞机准时起飞时，我已进入沉沉的睡梦中。在梦中，我似乎进入了时光隧道，去往另一个不同维度的空间。但的确，那是另一个不同的国度，位于赤道上的东非国家——肯尼亚。抵达时，我们的时针将往回拨5个小时。时光倒流，在抵达肯尼亚的那一刻，梦想成真。内罗毕国际机场，号称是东非最大、也最繁忙的机场，但在我们看来，小，且陈旧。繁忙却是真，当地时间傍晚19点过时，依然人流如潮，通关时，三四个关口处排着冗长的队伍。机场让人失望，但入住的酒店Crowne plaza却是当晚最大的惊喜了。出发之前，领队清静就说，肯尼亚的条件不太好，即使五星级酒店，也不一定有wifi，也不保证有热水淋浴，千万不要用国内五星级酒店的准来衡量。所以，当我们走进酒店，便有人递上热毛巾和芒果汁，有人主动帮忙搬送行李，再到走进房间，眼前一亮，打开手机，免费联上wifi时，激动之情便难以言喻了。只是，酒店禁止吸烟，不仅只是酒店大堂等公共区域，所有房间都禁止抽烟。烟瘾难耐的蟋蟀头不甘心，让我打电话到前台，询问何处可以抽烟。话筒那边的声音，礼貌且明确：请下楼，走出酒店大门。如此严格的禁烟，是我们意想不到的，更意想不到的是，酒店居然在门口设有安检，所有的行李都必须通过安检。当时虽觉奇怪，却并不太为意，只是在后来的行程中，才渐渐明了其中的原因所在。 D2（7-30）内罗毕——马赛马拉早餐后，我们便径直驱车离开酒店，没有在内罗毕作任何停留，直接驶向马赛马拉。座落在使馆区的Crowne plaza，似乎位于市区之外，仅几分钟而已，我们便已远离内罗毕，行驶在两边是乡村或镇子的公路上。而内罗毕的真实面貌，尚未见识。我们团队20人，共租了六辆面包车，每辆车3-4人。我和蟋蟀头、龙之杰三人一辆。刚上车坐稳，蟋蟀头便要我和司机说，带我们去买打火机。司机约瑟夫Joseph一口答应。一边开车，一边回过头说道：“no problem.” 刹车没踩，车速没减，还回过头来说话，他这个举动吓坏了我，赶紧说道：“别转头，别转头！”我的话音刚落，约瑟夫又把头转了回来，举着手里的香烟告诉我们，“车里可以吸烟”。他这句话让蟋蟀头和龙之杰高兴不已，赶紧给约瑟夫递过去一支烟。因为，在这之前，我们的导游再三告诫，肯尼亚很多地方不能随便吸烟，比如公共场所、草原、车上。但刚出发，就有这样的破例，两个烟鬼当然兴奋不已。他俩兴奋，我却有另外的担忧。约瑟夫开车时只要说话，必定回头，这习惯令我最初非常担心行驶的安全问。但实际上，我当然是多虑了。黑人司机的脑袋后面似乎还长了另一双眼睛似的，他们即使回头说话，也能灵活地与对面的车辆擦肩而过。 9点过，我们途中的第一次停车，杜导说，东非大裂谷到了。东非大裂谷，这条长度相当于地球周长1/6的大裂谷，是大陆上最大的断裂带。深陷的地沟，犹如地球的一道巨大伤疤。位于肯尼亚的裂谷，只是东非大裂谷的一部分。在裂谷地带，发现了距今已经有350万年的“能人”（从猿到人过渡阶段的人）遗骨，诸多考古发现证明东非大裂谷是人类文明最古老的发源地之一。在人类起源问上，很多科学家支持“非洲起源说”，即目前生活在世界各地的现代人类的祖先在大约20万年前起源于非洲，然后在距今10万年以内离开非洲，向亚洲和欧洲扩散。我们其实都是非洲后裔，你相信吗？maybe。但眼前的大裂谷，因为角度问，并不能让我们感受到视觉上的震撼。眼见不一定为实，便是这个道理。在大裂谷观景点，蟋蟀头的最大收获，可能便是买到的两盒火柴。观景点旁边一个木雕礼品店，我问售货员是否有打火机出售？他摇头，然后从袋中掏出1盒火柴。我点点头，“这个也行。” 售价1美元，没有讨价还价。想再问他多买一盒，他跑去另一个房间，对另一个人叽叽咕咕一阵后，那个人不知从什么角落里又翻出一盒火柴。火柴难道是这里的稀缺货？我有点不明白。后来问约瑟夫，为何他们不卖打火机，只有火柴？他回答，因为打火机的气有伤身体，所以人们不爱用。真是这样吗？我半信半疑。再一次停车时，正值中午时分，我们停在一家酒店午餐。下了车，男人们除了抽烟，便是纷纷抢着与黑人兄弟合影。他们的心思谁都明白，无非是想彰显一下自己的皮肤有多白。蟋蟀头之前一直说自己晒得太黑，现在他终于心理平衡了。不仅不黑，而且看起来似乎太白了。我们的司机约瑟夫，英语说得比我溜。在曾经是英国殖民地的肯尼亚，英语是官方语言，课本全部是英语写成。所以，只要上过学读过书的肯尼亚人，都会说一口流利英语，而且还是英式口语。非洲是一夫多妻制，所以我很好奇，约瑟夫娶了几个妻子。当他回答我，没有结婚时，我大为诧异。再问他年龄，他告诉我，他43了。听闻他已43岁还没有结婚，我表示不相信。他淡淡地笑着，“结过婚，但现在离了。”后来聊起他的生意时，他才说，7～10月是肯尼亚的旺季，他几乎天天开车在外；即使淡季的时候，也是隔一周外出一周，聚少离多，所以就离婚了，而且没有儿女。现在正和一个中国女孩交往中。约瑟夫的坦诚相告，让我了解到现在的肯尼亚，城市中的男人们迫于经济上的压力，一夫多妻在减少，这种现象也许在农村会更为普遍。午餐是自助餐。实际上，我们在肯尼亚这一路上，在酒店都是自助餐，如果在草原上，就是酒店准备的餐盒。非洲的饮食比想像中好。午餐后，继续上路。路边的植物，开始变得奇奇怪怪。初来乍到，沿途的所有风景都令我们感觉新鲜，即使车没有停留片刻，我们手中的相机快门也没停歇过。在通往马赛马拉的前半段路程时，约瑟夫并不干涉我们拍照，但后半段路经一些小镇时，他便严禁我们拍照，“NO photo!”他说归说，我们拍归拍，并不太理会他的干涉。但没想到，他神情更加严肃地阻止道：“这里不要拍照！如果你们再拍，街上的人会拿石子扔我们的。”一边说，他一边晃着右臂，做出扔石子的举动。我看着路边的人们，他们中的有些人在我们经过时还会向我们挥挥手。我很难想像，如果我拍他们，下一刻，他就会捡起石头攻击我们。但约瑟夫的严肃劲告诉我们，他不是在瞎编故事，他一定亲身经历过，他的车可能就被那些石子砸坏过。越接近马赛马拉，灰尘越大。当车从公路转入土路时，灰尘已是铺天盖地，迎着车袭来。即使车窗全部摇紧，也丝毫无用，在剧烈的颠簸中，车窗很容易就被颠开一条缝，然后缝隙越来越大。车中，一股干燥而呛人的土味，弥散开来。我和蟋蟀头都戴上了口罩，但过不了太久，蟋蟀头还是把口罩摘到了一边，“太闷了，气也喘不过来的感觉”。约瑟夫果然不愧有15年的车龄，驾驶经验丰富，即使路烂到极点，车七摇八颠，他也几乎不减速。别小看他这辆破面包车，可是改装过的拥有四驱的面包车。真正是面包车的外型，越野车的本领。车虽然颠得厉害，但我们还是睡着了。待再醒来时，蟋蟀头抹了下嘴巴，伸手向我要水喝，“我得喝口水把嘴里的土给咽下去。”他这话，把我刚喝进嘴里的水，差点喷出来。待我们六辆车终于全部停下来，我们可以下车透下风喘口气时，周围已是一片清新。“快看，那边的一群羚羊！”不知谁叫了一声，所有人的相机都对准了不远处草地上的一小群羚羊。这是我们在草原上第一次看到动物，难免兴奋。但在后面的几天，这样的羚羊随处可见时，大家也就习以为常了。毕竟，这是非洲大草原上最最常见的一种动物。上车，继续向前。刚刚进入马赛马拉的我们，新鲜、好奇、兴奋。显然，斑马比我们淡定许多。七八月是马赛马拉的冬季，枯黄的草色，一片片地蔓延开来，羚羊开始随处可见。我们的车停在了马赛村的门口。这些身披红布，手执一根木棒的男人，便是传说中连野兽也怕的骁勇善战的马赛人。我拿着一袋给小朋友们准备的棒棒糖跳下车，谁知，刚下车，这袋棒棒糖就几乎被这些男人们瓜分干净。去非洲之前，在书中了解到，马赛人不爱拍照，因为他们担心拍照会带走他们的灵魂。所以，我对去马赛村拍照心有顾忌。但是，这已不是一般的马赛村了，它已经商业化。早已见惯了各类游客，再加上我的棒棒糖，这些马赛男人都很乐意与我合影一张，即使把他们人手不离的木棒借我一用也是无所谓。要识别马赛男人很容易，因为他们的装束很醒目：两块红底黑条或红底黑格的布，一块扎在腰上遮羞，一块披在肩上。马赛男人之所以喜欢身披红布，其实是为了吓跑狮子等野兽，保护他们赖以生存的牛群。随着时代的变迁，这块传统的红布不再是单一的红底黑条，也变换出多种样式，出现了黑条、黄条、蓝条或者黄格、蓝格，唯一不变的就是大红的底色。蟋蟀头提出要披一下他们身上的那块红布，那个马赛人立马答应，把自己身上的披风解下来，给蟋蟀头围上，再系个结，就OK了，穿戴十分容易。这个说一口流利英语的马赛男人叫Peter，我注意到，甚至于他的装束都与其他马赛男人不一样。Peter指着距离我们不远的一个小门说道：“请大家抓紧时间，赶紧过来吧，我们为你们准备了节目。”那个用树枝扎起来的拱形小门便是马赛村的入口，低矮的入口与他们修长的身材完全不符。我们猜想是为防大型野兽进入才设计成这样的。参观马赛村并非免费，每人要收取35美元。这样一个自费项目让团队中的部分人有点犹豫不决，踌躇着是否要花200多人民币的门票去参观一个商业化的小村落。他们的犹而不决让Peter有点不耐烦了，大声地说道，“如果不参观村子，请不要再拍任何照片。”不能拍人，即使拍风景照也不行。最终，我们的团队一分为二，一部分去参观马赛村，另一部分则直接去酒店。关于值得不值得，每个人的心里都有把秤，且准不一，难以评判。我只是认为，既然已到了别人家门口了，人都站门口欢迎我们了，那就去吧，就算是一种礼仪。门票，就算是我们登门拜访的一点礼金而已。去亲朋好友家串门做客，我们还得拎点东西了，去别人村里作客送点礼品更是无可厚非。最重要的是，即使这已是一个对游客开放的马赛村，它也还是马赛村，是马赛人自己的家，而非一个临时搭建起来供游客参观的人工景点。跟着Peter进了马赛村。过那道拱门时，身材矮小如我，也得弯腰才能进入。村不大，零落地散着一些土坯砌成的房屋。低矮的土屋，与马赛人的身高同样不匹配。待我们一一进入，十几个马赛男人已经排成一排，准备为我们跳“勇士之舞”。“勇士之舞”是马赛男人的传统舞蹈，在他们的哼唱中，一个接一个的马赛人开始立定跳高，跳完一轮，再来一轮。除了绷紧小腿，笔直地往上跳，勇士之舞没有更多动作，手上也不需要多余的比划，只要尽可能地跳得高些就行。这真是我所见过的最简单的舞蹈。但其实，跳得高，跑得快，历来就是马赛人对勇士的认定准，这其实也与他们的游牧习性相关。（拍摄者：蟋蟀头）跳完舞，Peter开始为我们介绍他们的村庄。Peter说，收来的门票钱是为六个村子的100多个孩子筹建学校而用。得知我们每人交的35美元将用来建学校时，我心里顿时宽慰了许多。我问Peter，他为何会说英语？因为在我的想法里，以游牧为生的马赛部落，遵循传统生活方式的马赛人，一口流利的英语，似乎与他们完全沾不上边。Peter告诉我，他上过学。他竟然上过学？我有点吃惊。再问，村里有多少人上过学时，他平静地说道：“两个人。”另一个人，便是他的弟弟。“你是村长吗？”我问。能有这样特殊待遇的人，在我看来，必定是特权阶层。“NO。my father is chief.” 原来，他是酋长的儿子。Peter很得意地告诉我，他有10个老婆？十个老婆？！太让人吃惊了，他怎么顾得过来？“你结婚了吗？”这次轮到他向我提问了。“结婚了。”我指了指正在拍照的蟋蟀头。“不过，他只有我一个老婆。”我补充道。“你老婆向我提了这么多问，看来她爱上我了。要不，你把她让给我吧！”Peter开玩笑地和蟋蟀头说道。“NO。”蟋蟀头摇着头答道。但后来，他后悔了，和我说，“我应该假装答应他，再看他打算用多少头牛来换你，你就知道你值多少头牛了！”他刚一说完，便被我狠狠地掐了一下。不过，以畜牧为生的马赛人，的确是用牲畜作为娶亲的聘礼，据说十头牛就可以娶一个老婆。接下来，Peter就要带我们进屋去参观了。马赛人的房屋用泥土和牛龚搭建而成，屋顶则用茅草盖上。在马赛娶老婆，男人不用担心房子问，因为房屋都由老婆搭建，一个老婆一个屋子。门很小，依然只能弯腰进去。进去后是厅，除了一股难闻的骚味，小小的厅里什么也没有。如果要坐下来，对着门，靠墙的一侧有一条砌高的土堆，可以当沙发一用。而这难闻的味道，则来自牲畜。因为牲畜是马赛人的财产，有时晚上会让牛羊进屋，以防被野兽偷袭。所以，马赛人的房屋实际上是人畜共用，有股怪味也就在所难免了。侧面有个更小的门洞，钻进去，再向左转个弯，便是卧室了。这样的内部构造，其实是防止野兽或者敌人的贸然闯入。卧室小得可怜。靠右的地上用土稍微砌高点，再铺一些布，就是他们的床了。我有一个疑问，马赛人这么高的个子，这么短的床，岂不是从来都不能伸直腿睡觉？距离床边不到一米远的土灶，便是他们煮饭的地方。而墙上那个透着光亮的小洞，则是窗户。在我看来，说是窗户实在太不贴切，怎么看也只能说是个窗洞。在屋里生火煮东西，却只有这么小的两个窗孔换气，人住里面岂不要闷死？灯呢？屋里黑漆漆的一片，他们晚上用什么照明呢？杜导的解释是，马赛人的生活是日出而作，日落而息，天黑就睡觉了，根本用不着点灯。家徒四壁，马赛人的房屋真是把这个词解释得再透彻不过。（拍摄者：蟋蟀头）几个人挤在屋里，没呆多久，已觉缺氧，再加上屋内气味奇怪，我必须得出去透口气了。一出来，迎面便撞上一气质不凡的老者，他便是Peter的父亲——酋长大人。蟋蟀头按中国人的见面规矩，赶紧递上一支烟。老酋长把烟接过来，微笑不语。虽然他不会英语，我们无法更多交流，但老酋长的确是给人一种大家长的感觉。令人惊讶的是，马赛人至今沿袭万年前钻木取火的传统。两个人搭手。把一束枯草杆垫在地上，草杆上再放一个带孔的木块，一人用手按紧这个木块，不让它移动。另一人则用一根木棍穿过木块的孔眼，并两手合掌转动木棍。18秒的时候，开始有烟冒出，不到30秒，那束枯草杆已有些许火星。马赛人便把木棍和木块拿开，用手捧着枯草杆，用嘴对着火星开始吹。烟雾越来越大，直至那束枯草杆燃起了红色的火苗。钻木取火成功，全过程仅1分钟15秒。但我永远是那个“为什么小姐”，从小到大都是如此。我从蟋蟀头那里拿来一盒火柴，问Peter，“你们为何不用火柴呢？这个更方便快捷。”说完，我掏出一根火柴，准备示范给他看，让他知道现代文明的厉害。哪知，第一根火柴竟然没划燃；换一根火柴，不行；再换一根。连换几根火柴后，Peter笑了，我却万分沮丧，并且无从解释。也许，是神不想破坏马赛人对钻木取火的执着吧，想借马赛人将这古老的传统保持下去，以告诉后人，我们人类曾经用这样的方式取火。令人啼笑皆非的是，随后Peter拿了一个带孔的木块问我，要不要买？而且开价不菲。接着，女人们终于登场，为我们表演唱歌。与马赛男人相比，女人的穿着就色彩丰富许多，而且身形相对肥胖，不知这是否与生育有关。一夫多妻，全世界男人的梦想。不能一夫多妻，但至少可以与老婆们合个影。男队友们都纷纷跑过去与马赛女人合影，领队清静跑得最快，顺利拔得头筹，75次之，飞翔第三。只是，老婆们却越来越少。可怜的蟋蟀头，轮到他时，只剩三个马赛女人了。但他还是很开心，跟着马赛女人一起边唱边扭。她们唱的是马赛语，可蟋蟀头，你唱的又是什么呢？虽然是第四个上场，但明显他很受马赛女人的欢迎，一起唱歌，还一边有所交流。只是，你们在说什么呢？唱完几曲后，马赛女人们散去，Peter要继续带我们去参观。他指着房屋后面草地上围成半圆形的货摊说，“This is our market.”货摊上的东西无非是一些手链、项链和木制工艺品。Peter指着手链和项链告诉我说：“这些都是我们村里的女人做的。”然后指着木雕说，“这些都是我们男人做的。”“卖这些东西的收入也将用来建我们的学校。”看着这些做工粗糙，且大同小异的商品，这一次，我却有点怀疑了。真的是自己做的？真的会把钱用来建学校？无论如何，读过书的Peter已经不再是一个原始的马赛人了，也许，在他的意识里，早已植入了市场经济。不过后来再想想，即使这些收入不是用来建学校，而是用来改善他们的生活，也未尝不可。毕竟，他们的生活环境，真的不咋样。而事实上，随着时代的发展，旅游业的兴起，放牧早已不再是他们唯一的谋生手段。旅游收入，已经成为这些村庄重要的收入来源。([]

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